Electrical

Updated:3/23/07 Printer Version

On going electrical work with Maxum:

Well it's still on going. I was told "they would make it right" and I believe them. James. To those of you who asked about this, If anyone has a "specific" electrical question fell free to ask.

Jim where have you been, we missed you in January, 02 ?

Jim has been busy. I have been working with Maxum on serious ongoing problems in the Maxum Electrical systems for over one year. This has been a long and sometimes difficult effort, I am an outsider, I've been asked how could I know more than their electrical engineers. The answer is I own the boat and live with the boat and bought an ABYC Standards Manual. Have a degree in Electronics and owning an electromechanical service company for 25 years, and owning boats for 35 years also helped. The ABYC standards manuals didn't exactly match any of my three different Maxum wiring diagrams, even if it did match, they would still be wrong. I asked why, and in time so did Maxum. US Marine is making headway in identifying the extent of the problem areas. And has in some areas identified solutions. This looking has extended into other line than Maxum and I have been told similar problems have been found. To understand even more, I have attended the American Boat and Yacht Councils (ABYC)'s E-8 and E-9 AC Electrical and DC Electrical meeting in Maryland last month. And I have just come back from IBEX, the boat builders show in Ft. Lauderdale, where I have taken the ABYC Electrical certification exam. "Knowledge is power" or was that "knowledge is good"?

I herein invite US Marine to let their customers know in their own words about the electrical problems that exist in their boats and what they are planning to do about them.

Any reply will be sent to all. James Clausen

This E-Mail was sent from US Marine to me in May, 2002.
"I meant to send you an em ail late last week to let you know we continue to meet, now three times a week to review the fuse situation. Last week we looked at every cut slip for every boat and I can tell you we are on the edge of a final decision. I know I probably sound like a broken record but we really want to make sure we are taking the prudent steps with this deal. I will contact you as soon as we go along."
Best regards!! Same story in April, this has been going on for over a year and a half.

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8D Battery Change Out

Bought a used boat 4100SCB a couple of years ago and now it is time to
change out the batteries, there are 3 8D batteries between the genset
and the stern, my question how in the world do you get the batteries out
of the boat with the genset in the way, those batteries weigh about 180#
just like to know what other people do in this situation.

Thanks David Beyer

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Hi David,

I had the pleasure of doing just that about a year ago on my 2000 4100 SCB

I was able to do all the replacing by myself by using a few techniques...

First I took out the center battery, it seemed to be the easiest to leverage out of the box, I leaned it on the box edges first and later placed it on top of the genset, and later out of the boat.

After removing the center battery I unscrewed the box and took it out (4 screws on the outer lip)

The next battery to come out was the portside, knowing I could unscrew the boxes from the outside helped a lot, I simply unscrewed the box from the floor and slid the battery box with the battery on it towards the center position, and was able to take out the battery the same way as the first.

The starboard battery was just as easy, I unscrewed the box and slid the whole thing towards the center to make it easy to remove.

I should add I ended replacing them with AGM’s which require no changes to the charger and I later got a fourth battery that I installed on the port side (port side engine starter) and paralleled thev3 AGM’s to service the starboard and house.

Reinstallation was the same procedure in reverse, but I ended up finding better locations to make room for the fourth battery.

So in a few words the trick is to slide the batteries in their boxes to the center.

Ivan
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I've replace my 4600SCB batteries twice, I bought 1350 CCA wet cells, not AGM's.
I used young dock handlers to move them out, then in. I did the disconnect and reconnect.

Jim Clausen
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Interior Light Source Found:

Jim, I finally located the interior lights for our Maxum 4600 SCB's.
They are manufactured by Frilite in Sweden, and distributed by InterCon Marketing in Sarasota, FL.
Available from Sailor Sams and Swego.com for $12.95 each with xenon bulbs.

http://www.swego.com/mall/pinto_8675.asp
Steve Rudolph SEASLEIGH1@aol.com
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Deck Windless:
Just spoke to Lewmar - got some great information.

If we have the Concept 1 vertical windlass, it is rated for 100 lbs continuous load, 1433 lbs maximum pull. According to the Lewmar rep, the continuous load rating is VERY conservative.

The Lewmar representative recommended a formula to determine the maximum weight of the rode and anchor. He said it should be roughly 1/4 of the maximum pull of the windlass. So, for the Concept 1 windlass 1433 lbs maximum pull/4 = 358.25 lbs for anchor and rode weight. The representative said this should be "no problem" for the Concept 1 vertical windlass used with the Lewmar supplied breaker. (Jim Clausen inserts, we do not have the Lewmar breaker, Maxum bought the windless in bulk and installed them with a non Lewmar breakers, specifically a Blue Seas #7102 100 Amp breaker, owners are requested to check that a 100 amp breaker has been installed, as owners have reported that lower amperage breakers were found installed in their boats)

If by chance we have the concept 3 windlass, the maximum pull is 3000lbs for the 12 volt model. This would allow a rode / anchor weight of 750 lbs maximum. I do not have my boat available to verify which model came from the factory, but would guess it is the Concept 1.

More info:
If you look at the gypsy from above, the lower upward facing surface of the gypsy has on it 3 digits.
If the digits are OOO then the gypsy is for 1/4 inch G4 and BBB chain.
If the digits are 002 then the gypsy is for 5/16 G4 chain
If the digits are 003 then the gypsy is for 3/8" G4 chain.
Paul Huizinga cwest@seacwest.com

Jim Clausen inserts, Paul, you got me to pull out my manual,
We have the Lewmar "Concept" windless, I also suspect Concept 1 on the 4100's and 4600's.
http://www.lewmar.com/splash/splash.htm

Cone Clutch for smooth, easy control.
Rope chain gypsy accepts chain sizes 1/4"-7/8" & 7-13mm.
Pewter grey base, chrome gypsy/drum
Drive Train - robust & reliable
Dual direction, Power Up and Down
Manual override & chain release function
A range of combined rope chain windlasses for boats from 10m
(33ft) to 21m (70ft).

The switch to the right of the microphone holder is to prevent the anchor windless from operating without turning it's rocker switch, above it, on. Someone laid a hand held GPS on the windless's rocker switch while the boat was cruising along @ 8mph. This extra switch along with a mechanical tie on the anchor chain will hopefully prevent this from happening again.

Swim Platform Lights, I have also removed the swim platform lights that are 6 inches above the platform as you can't keep sea water out of the lens and the bulb stems corrode in the harness receptacle. I glassed over these two holes and put in two water tight 12 volt 3 inch transom lights as high on the transom as possible wired a water tight over center switch which I can turn on from the dock by reaching over the right aft cockpit transom/gunwale. Otherwise, you have to get on board and open the salon door to turn on these lights. Trouble is, you want the light on before you make that step onto the swim platform. Still a great boat. Ed White esjwhite@uswest.net 2/8/2001

Susan & Ed. I agree still a great boat. Like you, my lights as well as most other owners have had their swim platform light (off) due to corrosion. I was not a thorough as you, I just cleaned them up, sprayed corrosion block in there, put in a new bulb, then slackened the lenses in. It was an attempt to fix them on the go. Moving them up is a sensible answer. Having a switch is heaven. I expect mine to fail again shortly. Actually after 6000 miles and 18 more months they both still work, who knew. Hope you have found the website useful. Happy boating, James 2/2001

Bridge "3 way" lighting added to swim platform and bridge:
Hello Jim -

As promised, here are the details and photos of the added flybridge lights and controls for my 4600-SCB.
I did the following:

Added 5 lights around the flybridge, the same fixtures used around the cockpit below.
Added a "3-way" switch for the flybridge lights on the helm switch panel.
Added a "3-way" switch for the flybridge lights on the inside of the transom.
Added a "3-way" switch for the cockpit lights on the inside of the transom.

Now, when getting on the boat in the dark of night via the swim deck, I can merely reach over the inside of the transom and turn on the cockpit lights to see where I am going and find the sliding door keyhole.

Once inside, I can turn them off.

Also, before going up to the flybridge, I can turn on (or off) the 5 new lights above and also control them from the bridge.

The light assemblies are the exact same parts as used in the cockpit and other areas of the boat. The salon light switch and the spare helm switch had to be replaced with 3-way units and I had to get 3-ways for the transom.

The 3-way replacement switch in the helm switch panel. Matching style switches are not available in 3-way. These are illuminated that "glow" when off and can be seen in the dark.



Same model 3-way switches inside transom. Top switch fis for flybridge, lower switch for cockpit & swim deck.



Two lights port side flybridge, one is extreme left on face of port J-lounge seat, the other is extreme right, under left side of helm station.



This view is looking aft with a light on the starboard wall near the rear of the helm seat-sink & storage cabinet. Another light is over the stair hatch (seen closed) facing forward.



The last light is in the base of the J-lounge seat housing facing the aft sundeck area.



By the way - I purchased extra lenses only to replace all the old lenses on all the original light units because after 5 years they were all yellowed.

Sources for parts used in this project:

Light units:
U5M1702180 Courtesy Light @ $10.51
Boat-N-RV-Warehouse
845-565-9344

Lenses:
24077L Clear lens with lines @ $2.43
Liteco
574-389-0004

3-way toggle switches:
Cole Hersee p/n: 58328-16 SPDT rocker switch @ $6.96
Superior Distributing
201-797-9490

Wiring was marine grade 14/2 available at all Marine stores.

Barry Glick Barry@Comtex-NJ.com
on Daydream in Mamaroneck, NY

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4600SCB wiring change drawing, from Jim Clausen

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Wow, I'm excited about this new product I bought for our Maxum. I went to Boating weeks in Orlando, a (trade only) show and found CruzPro. From what I could see at the show they made a Great line of products, very high quality. But did I really need to replace my voltage gauges on the boat? We'll, yes I did. I wanted digital voltage gauges at the helm. I like other Maxum Owners, I have had more than my share of problems with the boats charging system. AND, I liked the fact that the gauges were programmable with low and high voltage alarms. That means if your voltage regulator inside of your alternator fails and you begin to overcharge your batteries you know almost at once, I've been on a chartered boat when this happened. But more likely, if the Alternator fails it will stop charging the battery, the unit also alarms on low battery. It fits the existing industry standard hole size hole 2 1/8" and is a three wire install, the third wire for the background lighting. I put the unit on my work bench and proceeded to test it at various input voltages, I programmed it and set the alarm feature, it was very easy to do. Thank you CruzPro for making just what every boater needs. I had the choice of purchasing two model V25's one for each engine, or one model V30 which provides for the monitoring of (3) battery systems at once leaving me a spare (hole) in the dash. I chose dual gauges, I didn't have a immediate need for another gauge and wanted to see the charging systems voltage displayed on each engine at all time. The V25 cost about $80. Ea and the V30 cost about $100. Ea. You can find them @ http://www.cruzpro.com Just to clarify this, you do not need to do the testing I did on this gauges. I did it to verify the accuracy of the voltage displayed as well as the accuracy of the high and low alarm points (out of the box). The unit, as well as the company get a 5 star, excellent rating. Installation should take one hour or less, and is quite simple. PS: While your instrument panel is off you should spray corrosion block on the exposed contact and in the switches. You should have no reservations ordering from CruzPro, and you will be very happy with the results. James 1/2001

V25	V30

I installed a Glendinning Cablemaster model cm-7-12vdc ((6/4cable) on my 4600 SCB. It has 80 feet of (6/4) 125/250 cable. I could never bow in as the 50 ft. cable was just to short. I used a 22 x15 cable storage unit. I removed the inside storage unit just left of the outside storage power cord area. The unit works great. Now I am able to bow or stern in and I have an ample power supply cord. The installation took about 10 hours. It is great to just press the switch to get the amount of cord you need . John Slater soaps2clean@aol.com

A Glendinning Cablemaster was also installed by, Steve & Cynthia Blair Mboating@aol.com on their 4600 SCB, Summer Rays.

To view some "NEW" electrical wiring drawings "Click Here"

(New Electrical drawings courtesy of the Maxum Marine Customer Service Department)

Engine Starting & Battery Charging: Either of your two engine alternators will recharge your Port Starting Battery and your combination Starboard Starting Battery / House Battery through the battery isolator, and if you have the inverter option, they will also recharge the inverter battery. Since either alternator can supply power, how do you know if they are both working? Here how you can test each alternator at start up. When starting your engines, alternate which one you start first. You can rely on remembering what you did last or you might want to think of Port as #1 and Starboard as #2 and use the day of the week to select starting sequence for you. Now start the even numbered engine first or the odd numbered engine first depending on weather the ending number of the week is odd or even. Sail Boaters and Cruisers do this a lot. Turn the key to the run position. Wait approximately 20 seconds or until the indicator light goes out. Start one of your engines. What ever selection method you choose within 15 up to seconds for the engines oil pressure come up to normal and verify that water is exiting the exhausts. And finally after at least 30 seconds of running the engine you can advance the throttle to 1200 rpm or so. This is due to some of our newer engines having "speed sensitive alternators" such as the (Delco 21-SI), they do not start producing power until approximately 1200 rpm. But do not fear, once activated the engine can be brought back down to idle speed and it will still charge. When the engine is brought to 1200 rpm you should see the voltmeter "kick in", come up to the normal position. Which of course you have previously marked with a white arrow made from your ever handy white electrical tape. With this done you can bring your throttle back down and normally start the second engine following the same procedure.

On Cummins Diesels this is also a good time to verify that the heater grids are working. Note: The Cummins B & C Operation and Maintenance Manual #33381834-00 the Operating Instructions on page 1-4 states: "On B Series engines, operation below 450 Rpm's or above 950 Rpm will cause the heater to shut off. The heater will automatically cycle on and off for approximately 20 minutes as long as the engine is operating with in the Rpm range stated above. The Air Heater will operate properly on the C Series engines between 350 - 1200 Rpm's heater operations will be noticeable with the voltmeter: When the heater is activated, it will draw voltage and the voltmeter will drop. Other factors that will affect the heaters operation are low voltage and air intake temperature. If the system voltage drops below 10 volts the air intake heater will not work. Once the engine warms up, when the air intake reaches approximately 95 degrees or higher this will cause the heater to shut off."

On our Maxum's you will see the helm's voltmeter go down a volt or two a few, two or so seconds and then come back up again. You can verify that it's the air heater grid by advancing the throttles to 1400 Rpm, the voltmeter should remain high and steady there. This voltage pulsing will happen until the thermistor in the engine comes up to temperature or you increase the throttles over 1200 Rpm. 3/00

For information on you boats electrical charging system "Click Here"

(Including your alternators, and some wiring diagrams)

Night Operations, I would also like to know if anyone has come up with a practical way to be able to identify the rocker switches on the dashboard at night. I seem to be having a hard time trying to figure out, which switch is which at night. I am thinking of installing a flexible neck light behind the compass just for this reason. Also does any body know of way that will tell me when the holding tank is empty while pressing down on the macerator switches from the bridge so I can stop? N Karkas NeptMach@aol.com

Night Operations, Just a quick note regarding my earlier question regarding red light bulbs
for my gauges. Sleeves are made that simply slide over each bulb. They are available in red, green or blue and can be purchased directly from Faria (the maker of Maxum gauges) at;
http://www.faria-instruments.com/index-new.html
Presto! No more glare, Regards, Bryce bgnord@mrfuton.com

Batteries, If you have an Inverter or Starting Battery that is forever going flat, (out of power) check the connection at the battery. We've had 3 owners report that the battery connections from the shore power charger to their batteries were not made up when their boats were delivered to them. The connections was taken off at the factory for shipment and were never re-installed by the prepping dealer. I've asked for copies of the list Maxum used to prep their boats for shipment as well as the list Maxum gives to their dealers that allows them to prep the boat for us the owners. The response I've gotten was "there is none". Wow! 1/00

For boats with inverters. Either of your main engines will charge your inverter battery while underway, except, if someone failed to install a jumper from the port starting batteries negative terminal to the Inverter batteries negative terminal. You can check this with a voltmeter. Set it to volts and go from the negative terminal of the inverter battery to negative terminal of the starting battery. There should be -0- voltage since they should all be electrically the same point. If they are anything but -0- you have a missing negative jumper. 4/00

Battery Charger, Maxum supplies the boats with a "bulk battery charger" from Pro Mariner until 2002. It is not really meant to be "left on" and just walked away from. If you do, and many owners do just that, you will be continuously charging the battery and hence boiling out the water from the batteries. I know, even with leaving the charger on for short periods. I have had to use (8) eight (16) oz bottles of distilled water to refill the (3) size 8D batteries over only a 10 week period. [Allow me to digress and tell you that I bought a battery filler from Pep Boys for this job, an great investment by the way it gives perfect fills, prevents contamination and keeps the acid away from you.] This type of treatment will prematurely kill the batteries. First these are expensive batteries, Second they are HEAVY, Third I don't need any more problems in my life, Thank You. There are two answers, First be more conservative with turning on the battery charger. Or Two, replace it with a "Smart Charger". I've tried the first, now I moved onto the second. I installed a Statpower "Connect and Forget" Smart Charger. I bought it from their website, www.statpower.com I purchased mine refurbished, and saved 40 to 60% over the price of new. They have 10, 20 and 40 amp models. Their chargers have the option of a remote panel to monitor the batteries condition without jumping into the bilge. Very slick. They also offer a battery temperature monitor for more accurate battery maintenance, it plugs into the bottom of the charger with a telephone type jack. The sensor attaches to the negative battery post and measures the batteries internal temperature so you will not warp the plates by charging the battery too quickly. Statpower told me when I asked "why the negative post" it is because the negative post material inside the battery is denser and transmits the heat to the negative post better for a more accurate reading. So there. Their charger also has an "equalize" push button to remove the build up of sulfide on the plates of the batteries. Their charger charges in three steps so it will not over charge and cook the water out of your battery, it will monitor the voltage and turn on when required, or will automatically turn on every 21 days just to check and top off the batteries. The true charge 10+, 20+, & 40+ amp models charge 3 banks of batteries, and are sold through local marine stores, they have a new slick yellow accent color too. Statpower can be reached @ 604-420-1585, ask for internet sales. The installation took about 1 hour, I used all of the original wiring and to my glee didn't need an extra thing.12/99

Two years latter, I've had very low water replacement in the batteries, I'm thrilled. This proved to be an excellent choice. 3/02

It is interesting to note, that many of the issues that you had addressed in your web site regarding the 2001 model year 4600 SCB have been addressed. The battery charger is now a ProMariner ProMatic 3.
Sincerely, Ken Cunningham kennethmcunningham@attbi.com

Truecharge 40 shown on the right. While this is not electrical in nature, it is a good photo of the hydraulics system. It uses ultra pure "anti freeze" under pressure not oil for the throttle and shift levers. Pressure about 75 psi.

Battery Care and Maintenance.

Here's some information from ARCO, a full supplier of new and remanufactured electrical products for the starting and charging of Marine equipment. Excerpts below are from the ARCO Electrical Technical Manual it is 58 pages big, it cost $9.95.

"A good battery can provide four or five years of worry-free service with the right kind of care. But, batteries can also die out fast, in less than six months, if they are neglected.

1. It is very necessary in order to keep a healthy battery, that the charge rate be maintained within the recommended boundaries.

2. If neglected, the electrolyte level becomes very low, and the battery starts to lose power, since part of each plate is above the water line.

a. This keeps the rest of plate overworked.

b. Tops of the plates exposed to air start to dry out and harden. Once this happens, the plates will lose most of their ability to accept a charge and produce electricity.

3. Lead acid batteries generally require adding water about twice a year. (With the standard Maxum Bulk Charger, every 2 to 3 months if the charger is left on)

4. Electrolyte level should be maintained about a quarter inch above the tops of the battery plates.

Outside the Battery

1. The outside of the battery is just as important as the inside. For example, dirt or acid salts can build up on top of the battery. A conductive layer is formed causing a constant discharge drain on the cells.

2. A baking soda bath with water and dish detergent, 3 times per year, helps keep outside

battery losses at a minimum. Never allow this mixture to enter the battery. This mixture will neutralize acid and cause dead cells.

3. Corrosion of the cable terminals is a major cause of battery problems. (Spraying Corrosion Block here can help)

a. Acid corrosion can greatly destroy the cable and result in loss of current to the starter.

4. Check all terminals to see that they are absolutely clean and tight. Check for broken wires at battery cable connections.

5. Proper care of cables and terminals is as important as maintaining the battery.

6. Never store a battery for more than 30 days without recharging, or store a battery for any length of time in a discharged state. Sulfation starts when a battery becomes discharged. Sulfation is normal.

When sulfation happens, lead sulfate is formed from the self-discharge of the plates or the plates standing in a discharged state for a long period of time. Hard, bulky, crystal-like substances are created on the plates.

( Our standard Maxum bulk chargers cannot remove the major portion of the sulfatication. You must have a charger with a "EQ" Equalize Button, when you Equalize the battery you in essence over charge it (15.5 volts) to break down the sulfides deposits on the plates, thus giving the battery more life and the ability to hold it's original rated charge. The Equalize Mode is a controlled overcharge used periodically (example, once each month or once every other month) to help dissolve any recently solidified sulfate deposits on the battery plates. Older sulfation deposits normally harden onto the plates, and cannot be dissolved into the electrolyte.)

Batteries that are in a discharged state for too long and are not being used, will lose the balance of their charge. It is not recommended that a battery go for more than 30 days without getting a charging current. What also happens, is that the pores of the active materials get clogged from the large bulky crystals of sulfate. The active material gets pushed out of the grids, causing them to buckle. If too much internal expansion happens from a sulfated battery, the case will become bulged or cracked.

**WARNING** Batteries give off hydrogen gas constantly. Hydrogen gas is highly explosive. Always wear safety glasses or goggles and use caution when working with batteries.

Battery Testing: Open Circuit Voltage Test

Before you can properly test any battery it must be fully charged. You can verify the

state of charge two ways: (Doing Both is Recommended)

The simplest test is done with a digital multimeter.

The other test involves the use of a hydrometer.

Using the digital multimeter to verify the state of charge:

A fully charged 12 volt battery will read at least 12.6 volts on the multimeter when connected as shown below.

Open Circuit Volts? Percent, with no loads or chargers connected.

11. 7 volts or less? 0%

12.2 volts 50%

12.4 volts 75%

12.6 or more volts100%

Digital multimeter will read 12.6 volts on a fully charged 12 volt battery.

(2.1 volts per cell times "6 cells" = 12.6 volts)

Connect the digital multimeter to the battery terminals. If your reading is 12.4 or below

You must recharge the battery before testing.

Using a hydrometer to verify the state of charge:

When testing batteries with removable filler caps, the hydrometer can be a very useful tool. Always use protective acid resistant gloves and safety glasses or a full face shield. Read ARCO's book before you get involved.

Each cell of the battery can be individually tested for state of charge. A reading of

1.250 is usually considered good. (See hydrometer below.) If a cell is found with specific gravity below 1.150 the battery is considered dead.

When one or more of the cells produces a reading that is .050 or more below that of the

others, it's a pretty good indication that the low cells are shorted.

If all the cells read below 1.250 then the battery must be recharged before testing.

State of Charge - Standard Specific Gravity

100% charged?- 1.270

75% charged - 1.225

50% charged - 1.190

25% charged - 1.155

Discharged - 1.120

Thank You ARCO STARTING & CHARGING SPECIALISTS * 3921 Navy Blvd. Pensacola, FL 32507-1296 for the above information.

ARCO has the largest Marine Electric inventory Anywhere, and it says so on their building in Pensacola Fl, 904-455-5476 1-800-722-2720, www.arcomarine.com

Battery Charging

Maxum's "Bulk Pro Charger" has a fixed voltage output of about 13.8 volts. mine is actually 14.1 volts. This causes gassing in the battery as well as heat. Leaving this charger on all the time will in time, boil the water out of the battery. We recommend replacing the existing charger with a three stage, four mode, Statpower smart charger or similar unit the Statpower unit works like this:

TRUECHARGE Charging Algorithm http://www.statpower.com

The TRUECHARGE charging algorithm has 4 modes:

1) Bulk

When the TRUECHARGE first enters a charge cycle the "bulk" mode provides a constant current of 20A (ex. TRUECHARGE 20) to bring the battery back up to 80% capacity in the shortest period of time. The TRUECHARGE moves from Bulk to Absorption mode when the charger output/battery voltage reaches Absorption/gassing Voltage (typically 14.4 V dependent on battery type switch setting, and temperature). The bulk charge current is reduced slowly as the battery voltage reaches about 97% of the Absorption voltage, therefore your instrument panels ammeter may read a slightly lower charge current before the battery voltage actually reaches the Absorption/gassing voltage. The TRUECHARGE will stop charging for up to 20 seconds in 15 minute intervals to recalibrate and test the battery condition.

2) Absorption

Absorption mode holds the battery voltage constant (typically 14.4 V +/- 0.1 V) while allowing the battery to absorb the remaining 20% of it's capacity. During Absorption the battery actually determines the charge current, the charge current reduces as the battery continues to move closer to the fully charged state. When the current reduces to only 3A (TRUECHARGE 20), the TRUECHARGE continues to charge for 1 additional hour, then considers the battery fully charged and moves to the float mode. If your TRUECHARGE is set to Gel the charger will go into float mode immediately. If you happen to have a DC load turned on (ex. 5A DC cabin light, or fridge) the charger will attempt to provide the necessary current for the light as well. Therefore the charger current may not drop to 3A. The TRUECHARGE will automatically go into float mode after 6 hours to ensure the batteries are not held at the higher gassing voltage of 14.4.

3) Float

Float mode is a maintenance charge where the TRUECHARGE has fully charged the battery and now holds the battery voltage at 13.5 V (dependent on switch settings) to help ensure the battery does not self discharge. This constant voltage state also helps reduce the rate of sulfation. During float the typical charge current will be 1-3A and is dependent on the battery capacity, and condition. If additional DC loads (ex. 5A DC cabin light, or fridge) are turned on the TRUECHARGE will provide up to 20A (TRUECHARGE 20) of current to maintain the float voltage (13.5 V). If the total draw is more than 20A, the charger output current will remain at its maximum and the battery system voltage will fall until the battery supplies the excess current. If the battery voltage drops to 12.5 V for at least 15 minutes the charger will go into the regular charge cycle. The TRUECHARGE will recharge the battery once the loads are turned off.

If the boat is docked without significant DC current use, the TRUECHARGE will restart a regular charge cycle after 3 weeks (provided the TRUECHARGE is connected to AC power). If AC power to the charger is interrupted for up to 60 seconds only the charger will resume its charging mode. If AC power to the TRUECHARGE is interrupted for more than 60 seconds the charger will reset and go into the regular charge cycle when reconnected to AC.

4) Equalization

Equalization is a controlled overcharge intended to dissolve any recently accumulated sulfation on the battery plates, regaining more of the batteries original capacity. When the small recessed button is pressed the TRUECHARGE first completes a regular charge cycle to establish a charge state reference point. The TRUECHARGE then charges at 5A (TRUECHARGE 20) raising the battery voltage to maximum 15.5 V. The operator is then to test the battery cells specific gravity every hour, and take the charger out of equalize mode when the cells are no longer equalizing. If the operator does not take the charger out of Equalize the TRUECHARGE will exit Equalize and go into float mode after 6 hours.

TRUECHARGE Algorithm Suitability

If your TRUECHARGE battery charger is operating normally, but the battery specific gravity does not reach 1.250 :

a) Delco brand batteries require Float and Absorption voltages approximately 1 V higher than normal lead acid flooded type batteries. The TRUECHARGE presently is not designed to automatically charge these batteries to full capacity without performing a manual "equalize charge."

b) Trojan brand batteries will recharge to approximately 90 to 95% of full capacity. This results in approximately 5-10% reduction in battery capacity, but perhaps longer life. Battery "life expectancy" may be slightly compromised when every possible amp hour of a battery capacity is achieved through extensive charging.

c) Interstate batteries as with most others require an "initial" equalize charge (15.5 V) at the time of sale to the end user, to recharge the battery after it has been sitting possibly discharged on the dealers shelf at time of sale to customer. After proper initial charge, the TRUECHARGE algorithm is ideal. 3/2001 James

Bilge Pumps, are powered from the Starboard, house battery. 12/99

Battery Parallel Switch operates the solenoid located "typically" near the main disconnect switch, this one is on a 4600 SCB and is located just above the hydraulic steering ram. 12/99

Trace Inverter, first there is no problem with our inverter. I spoke to Trace @ the Miami Boat Show, when I told them the inverter was a series U-2512 they laughed at me and told me it was bullet proof. So far they are right. But our boat did have a freaky electrical problem, (I've installed and serviced Motor Generators from 20 Kva to 850 Kva for 18 years, I’ve seen freaky) Our microwave would work on Shore Power and Generator but not on Inverter. When I dug into it I found two neutral busses inside the breaker panel, load neutrals were going to each, but there seamed to be a missing jumper joining the busses. I installed it and everything is working fine. Maxum commented on my fix and corrected me. One Neutral bus is for the non inverter loads, and one Neutral bus is for inverter loads, they are separate due to ABYC code. It seems that Maxum incorrectly installed at least the microwave load neutral and the feed neutral from the inverter to the wrong bus bar. I have called Trace to verify the wiring going through their inverter, Trace agrees that electrically either fix will work. Trace also points out that with my fix I could not use a GFI breaker on the AC feed to the inverter due to stray neutral currents, since there is no GFI feeding our inverter I will leave well enough alone. 12/99 http://www.traceengineering.com/ Trace is @ 360-435-8826

Bridge DC Master Switch and flooding alarms, I've left on 3 different bridge switches in on the on position 3 different times, well I think it was me, so I installed a master switch to turn on and off everything from the bridge. (same height as the steering wheel, to the right) Red and Green reminders on the dash help with long distances between markers, I feel as though I'm growing old. The circular gauge on the lower left is a "flooding alarm" I installed on the bridge, the photo below is the second alarm station in the bedroom. There are 4 extra float switches, one forward, one amidships and one each in the shaft allies, all about 1' higher. The lower photo is the visual and audible indicator in the master bedroom. I'm considering a third alarm station near the aft running light for when were away and at the dock. As well as a 5^th sensor in the stern, that’s where the water ends up on plane. I used the extra wiring already run for the fire suppression system that is not installed to get from the bilge to the bridge. And I'll use the extra wiring already run for the PA horn that I didn't order for the aft flooding indicator on the arch. If you didn't get the engine synchronizers you have more additional wiring from the bridge to the engine room for you future handy work. 2/00 & 4/00

Flooding alarm (left) and Master DC switch (right). This stock Dino Steering Wheel on a 4600 SCB costs over $400.00 and is real wood, you want to prevent water from hitting it and getting under to the wood and raising the grain, keep it touched up with Poly.

Flooding alarm, 2d station in master bedroom, 4600 SCB

The ever valuable roll of white electrical tape. Ever have to hit the horn quickly? Stripe the horn switch with white electrical tape, the next time you need it you will know just where it is. Cut small arrows and overlay them on your gauges to indicate "normal" operation.

View facing up.	Bob Cepha's Power Panel with a Boat US wedge light item # 233044 connect to a 15 amp breaker below. 4/2001

Here's my inverter panel, with added DC outlet, phone jack, and ram mic. The ram mic works as an intercom to and from the VHF upstairs, as well as a VHF and weather radio in the salon. The external speaker is mounted in the cabinet just above.

Here's my inverter panel, with added DC outlet here as well as above the TV, there's a phone jack, and ram mic here as well. The ram mic works as an intercom to and from the VHF upstairs, as well as a VHF and weather radio in the salon. The external speaker is mounted in the cabinet just above.

Marine Air (brain), if I had my druthers, I'd move the AC brain to the centerline of the boat between the hydraulic controls. There is just enough room to locate it there. I'd hate to service it where it is installed now.

R Vilick, owner of a 4100 SCR is looking for a wiring diagram for his boat. He says "I did receive a preview copy of the proposed manual for the 4100SCR but it is not accurate, and is in fact its a copy of the Bayliner Avanti manual. They are similar boats but not the same", We all await a good, well written, in depth manual, it has been the most reoccurring shortfall of the boat, the missing and incomplete electrical diagram is second.

Instruments, Your boats instruments are warranted by the manufacturer, Thomas G Faria Corp, Uncasville, CT Ph # 860-848-9271 for 36 months from the date of purchase of your boat. During the 36 month warranty period contact your dealer for replacements. Past the 36 month warranty, the tack for instance can be returned and serviced for a flat rate of $25.00, smaller instruments for less.

Lamps

If you own the boat, eventually you will need to replace a lamp or two. I thought it might be handy to have their bulb numbers written down. And maybe, for the odd one or two a source to buy them. James

Deck Courtesy lights use a #161 bulb, (1 candle power)

SL6 in small gauges is also a #194 bulb, (2 candle power), .27 amps

SL7 in large gauges is also a #168 bulb, (3 candle power), .35 amps

All the bulbs listed above are (T1, wedge base) the same physical size and base design.

Outside overhead recessed lamps are # 69, ANCOR Part # 529104, 10 watt

Closet lights and Engine Room lights are #906, (T5, wedge base), .69 amps, 9 watts.

Searchlight, Uses a Jabsco bulb light kit # 18753-0178, 50 watts, Jabsco's Ph # 714-545-8251

Docking Lights, by Barnegat Light model QL-3294, Ph # 215-493-2777, you use the flood it's a GE # 7614, both sealed beams, 50 watts each.

While the fixture is rated for a maximum of the #906 bulb, I point out that, just for information sake that a #912 (same base) is slightly brighter drawing 1 amp, 12.8 watts.

Cabin OH lights, bulb, OSRAM, 64405, 12v, 5W, use bulb #186, .42 amps, Light fixture manufacturer is (Fri Light Sweden #8675)

Reading lights are GE, M63 FSV 12V, 20Watt, 30 degree wide bulbs, code # 30780, to remove them unscrew the head, and push and twist the entire lens. They are about $15.00 Light Bulbs Unlimited, 407-539-2852

Side Light, Made by Aqua Signal, West Marine Part # 268391, 12v, 25w, you can also use a West Marine part # 288953, 12v, 18w, made by Anchor, bulb #1142, for a bit less money if you like.

Stern light on masthead, 25w, Made by Aqua Signal, West Marine part # 174466

Anchor light on masthead, 10w, Made by Aqua Signal, West Marine part # 174458

Aqua Signal’s website http://www.polimarin.com/polimarin/aquasignalnavlights.htm

To receive information from the Maxum Sports Yacht Owners Group
send your name, hull #, and tip, if you have one to James, @BilleGates@aol.com