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Maxum Sport Yacht Owners Group 2002 E-mails |
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Coast Guard Advisory to Recreational Boaters on Carbon Monoxide Hazard Caused by Generator Exhaust
The Coast Guard advises owners and operators of boats to turn off gasoline-powered generators with transom exhaust ports when the swim platform on the stern is in use. The Coast Guard further advises that swimmers should not enter the cavity of a boat designed with a generator emitting exhaust into the cavity between the swim platform and the transom of the vessel. The Coast Guard is concerned about the serious health risk from carbon monoxide poisoning and seeks to prevent loss of life and personal injury.
The Coast Guard was made aware of the deadly combination of generator exhaust and swim platforms through a September 2000 National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) study of houseboat carbon monoxide deaths on Lake Powell in Arizona. The study showed that the particular design of the stern swim platform on certain models of houseboats created a cavity between the hull of the vessel and the swim platform where the gasoline-powered generator exhaust port is located. When the generator is running the carbon monoxide buildup in this cavity, as well as the swim platform and rear deck space, is so high that it creates an imminent danger of death for anyone who enters the cavity even for a very short period of time. The common practice of keeping generators running to power air conditioning, entertainment centers, and electronic suites while moored or anchored has exacerbated the problem.
The Coast Guard has conducted a preliminary investigation into the problem and has issued a letter to all known houseboat manufacturers informing them of this hazard and soliciting their plans for reducing the danger. The problem may not be confined to houseboats, however, since any boat with the generator exhaust located in the transom and a swim platform could present the same lethal hazard. The Coast Guard is expanding its investigation of this problem to include all types of boats.
Previous carbon monoxide warnings and educational materials have concentrated on the hazards created by the exhaust of the main propulsion engines while underway. Although these dangers still exist, the Coast Guard will develop new educational materials to emphasize the additional hazards of using a gasoline-powered generator, especially while not underway.
The Coast Guard warns all boaters that this is an extremely dangerous matter that could result in serious injury or death and advises all boat owners to heed this warning.
You can order maxum parts through your selling dealer or from any dealer for that matter. This Dealer, Olympic Yacht Center does a high volume of Maxums and has been able to provide parts to anyone calling. The contact is Ron Jones, 206-325-6774, olympicyachtcenter@juno.com
In a message dated 2/4/02 6:57:09 AM, rgodek@hondaconnectors.com writes:
Hi James,
I own a 1998 Maxum 4100SCA (Hull# BVKA33YAB898), you dropped off your card while you visited Reefpoint Marina, Racine, WI several years ago. Thanks for the card.... I am a constant visitor to the website! I have found a lot of useful information.
I seem to recall reading something about 3/16" drain holes being drilled into the aft hardtop to allow trapped water to drain. Can you give me some additional information as to where these holes are to placed? I guess the bigger question is how is the water entering the hardtop?
I have experienced finding a liquid looking like Coke Cola on the swimplatform while cruising, of course this was after the boat was on plane. I accused my wife of throwing a drink overboard...she denied it...but,
That's another story. The reason for my concern is I just came back from checking out the "Mo Baby" as she is currently lay-up for the winter, I notice the same Coke-like liquid oozing from the shrink-wrap. I climbed aboard and found that the aft cabin starboard vertical support had ruptured at the upper weld and had sprayed the coke-like liquid over the aft deck. I am assuming that there was enough trapped water in the hardtop to cause this problem. Have any of my fellow aft cabin owners experienced such a problem?
Regards, Bob Godek (630) 227-0081 rgodek@hondaconnectors.com
Bob feel free to give me a call I've got "coke" coming from the upper side drains. I've also forwarded your E-mail to Kennie Richardson of Maxum for his comments.
James Clausen, Maxum Owners Group
Thank you very much for your reply. I spoke to a fellow named Jamie Wright, he is a former Salisbury worker that left Maxum and joined the local Maxum dealer, Pier 33, in St. Joe, Michigan....well that was until Pier 33, Maxum's number one dealer dropped the line last year. Jamie is acting as a local subcontractor for Maxum. Jamie told me that the "resin water" (coke) was a problem on the 4600. I too have the "resin water" leaking on the portside of the flybridge on my 4100SCA. He stated that he had not heard of any "resin water" problems on the aft cabin hardtop, however, after I described how the support for the hardtop had ruptured, he agreed that water must be getting into the hardtop. The mysterious part is the supports are supposed to be sealed at both ends...Hmmmmm.
I purchased the 5 year extended warranty from FPC. I am working with Jamie to get the repairs done under the insurance policy. Jamie initially contacted Maxum regarding the ruptured support, and they were quick to point out that my boat was out of warranty......this sort of upsets me because I have been boating for 30 years in Midwest and I have never worried about winterizing my hardtop supports!
If FPC isn't willing to cover me on the support, I'm going to try to work with Maxum to see if they will at least supply a new starboard support on a N/C basis. I had great luck working with Ross Robinson out of the US Marine facility in Washington State.
As soon as I learn something, I'll drop you a line.
I hope to be enjoying some of your nice Florida weather next week, my wife and I are headed to the Miami Boat Show next Wednesday. Regards, Bob Godek
Ps: If you know of anyone looking for some Avonite (Aztec Brown) work, i have a local source that does super work and is very competitive, also I have the Maxum Logo (flee) in a Tajima format for those that need it for embroidery purposes. As soon as I learn something, I'll drop you a line.
I was so smart, that I installed a whole boat water filter on our 4600 SCB. To make it the best water ever I tasted I installed the best filter, a carbon filter. I recently found out that the carbon removes the chlorine in the water and allows icky things to grow. Well, all is not lost, I replace the carbon filter with a cotton filter and installed a smaller carbon filter under the kitchen sink and one on the ice makers water feed.
Jim has been busy. I have been working with Maxum on serious ongoing problems in the Maxum Electrical systems for over one year. This has been a long and sometimes difficult effort, I am an outsider, I've been asked how could I know more than their electrical engineers. The answer is I own the boat and live with the boat and bought an ABYC Standards Manual. Have a degree in Electronics and owning an electromechanical service company for 25 years, and owning boats for 35 years also helped. The ABYC standards manuals didn't exactly match any of my three different Maxum wiring diagrams, even if it did match, they would still be wrong. I asked why, and in time so did Maxum. US Marine is making headway in identifying the extent of the problem areas. And has in some areas identified solutions. This looking has extended into other line than Maxum and I have been told similar problems have been found. To understand even more, I have attended the American Boat and Yacht Council's (ABYC)'s E-8 and E-9 AC Electrical and DC Electrical meeting in Maryland last month. And I have just come back from IBEX, the boat builders show in Ft. Lauderdale, where I have taken the ABYC Electrical certification exam. "Knowledge is power" or was that "knowledge is good"?
I herein invite US Marine to let their customers know in their own words about the electrical problems that exist in their boats and what they are planning to do about them.
Any reply will be sent to all. James Clausen
Here we go.
The "March Special" was a link to a website that showed a Towboat and a bridge. They are some of the best action boating photos I have ever seen. Well, we now have the entire set of photos here on this website @ http://members.fortunecity.com/billegates/towboat.html
And of course there is more, there's details from the captain of the towboat that went through just before this accident took place.
Thanks for that! I can now believe that someone had a worse day than I have!
That was un-frumpin believeable!! Phil
Unbelievable!!!!
Unbelievable!
Wow And the Captain? He lived to tell the tale and no one will ever believe him! One of those zany stories of the Old Man River ! Great pictures!
James, I got the E-mail this time... Thanks for the extra effort. Please notify us if any more information comes available on the "COKE" stains.. I have it on my 46 -- 2000 model. It comes only from the two side drains, mid bridge. We all appreciate your work on the web page. (I was the one that sent pictures of my spare prop storage in the lazzerett... sp? )
Rod day day1@attbroadband.com
Hi James, After reading this months new letter I have the problem with the "coke" coming out of my 4600 SCB fly bridge drains. Is this something that will cure itself and is there any long-term damage that can occur? My boat is kept under roof so only sees water when I wash it and therefore I have only seen the "coke" effect twice. Bob Bowers
The "coke stains" have gone away on our boat; they seam to have been trapped in the sandwich under the bridge deck and salon ceiling. They showed themselves as "coke stains' down the side, the stern, and out of the overhangs outdoor speakers. They only lasted 3 to 6 months and have not come back, exactly what they were, I do not know. James Clausen
Jim, I also had water dripping from the wiring access panel in the ceiling of the hardtop on my 4100SCA. Upon removing the panel, I found water coming in through the fasteners for the anchor/all-around light. I re-bedded the fixture and the fasteners and that took care of the problem. Roger Wothe
I am having a more pressing issue with a very large amount of frost building up in my refrigerator freezer. I have check all the seals on the doors and they appear to be sealing just fine. In just a few days it will build a large amount of frost in the freezer and the metal plate between the freezer and refrigerator is always wet and has started to rust quite. Have you heard of anyone else having this problem?
When your door closes it does not seal properly. I had the same problem; we had to shim the outer face door with washers to allow the inner real door to seal. Piece a cake job, give it a couple of hours time and you will be all set, as for the rust, catch it quick with sand paper, mask the area and spray it black. James.
It won't be long now until we are doing the spring clean up and 1st waxing of the season.
Bob Bowers
Name: WILLIAM VASSELL Subject: Re: bow thrusters Email: WCVCSC@aol.com
Maxum Model: 4600 SCB DO I NEED BOW THUSTERS FOR MY 4600 SBC does an after market application work. BILL VASSELL Bill, I don't know of anyone with a bow thruster. I guess that an answer of sorts. James.
In a message dated 2/13/02 5:48:23 PM, FAAmandi writes:
James....I own a 2000 4600.....have you heard of any diesel fuel getting into the forward bilge area?....I recently had a major diesel fuel leak on my portside engine from a fuel injector valve but after we cleaned up the mess, my captain found diesel in the forward bilge?....any thoughts on how it can get there?....thanks.....Fernando Amandi. >>
Yes, it happened to me too. Starboard side during filling, our fuel sender was not totally screwed down in the tank, we overfilled into the catch basin under the tank. There are weep holes that weep forward. Why they go forward I do not know. But fuel ran forward under the small bedroom, under the water tank and into the forward bilge.
Port side we had a loose connection on the lift pump just before the injector. But our spill was contained under the engine. If the port side had pressure, the spill could have gotten under the tanks and weeped forward there?
Good news, the Diesel smell will go away and not come back, in time. Bad new, you have to get all of the diesel you can out by dipping and dabbing in impossible places. Jc
Well it's still on going. I was told "they would make it right" and I believe them. James.
To those of you who asked about this, If anyone has a "specific" electrical question fell free to ask.
Filters: I found the Racor guys at IBEX, I wanted to talk about water in my diesel fuel getting into my Racor filter. I specifically wanted to know, since the water had reached the filter element and I had since drained the water, does the diesel displace the water from the element? Or did the water wick into the element and ruin that portion of the filter? The answer is, the Racor element is made of an "aquablock" cellulose and it is not permeable to water. The water is displaced. This is on Racor's; other filters can be different. As an owner you should have the Racor catalogue on Marine Filtration. Brochure # 7501. You can call 800-344-3286 and request one.
Battery Charging. Did you know the difference between a fully charged battery and a discharged battery is .9 volts? Source? Word of mouth, an article I read a while ago and Ed Sherman the assistant Director of Education for the ABYC, American Boat and Yacht Council. Also, Nigel Calders new book, Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual (Second Edition). Highly recommended to add to your boating library, available from Bluewater Books or International Marine. Did you also know that the deeper you discharge a battery the fewer cycles you will get out of it? And the third fact I want to bring up is, the lower the battery voltage is, the more current, (amps) are required to make up the devices rated input.
Do you remember all those Cummins 450C engines that had their Delco 21Si alternators mis-wired from the Maxum factory? They were putting out .7 to .9 volts less than they should have been. This equates to hard starting, excessive current to the starter motor, short battery life. Maxum has a fix for this if you need it. This applies only to boats with the 450C Cummins Engines.
Outside Shower Unit was manufactured by "Heater Craft" Of Rathdrum Id, 208-687-4400. If you need any replacement parts please contact them directly.
Propellers: My hub on my original factory-supplied propeller is too long by 1/2" . Why I don't know. But to reduce it in length to match my other two sets of propeller I had to have it cut at a machine shop. I called Michigan Propeller and asked them about settings on the miller to do this. The said to cut nibrl, use a 1" to 1 1/4" end mill at 800 rpm. Or a 2" + carbide cutter @ 2000 rpm.
More Propellers: Some of our boats have Nakashima Propellers. There is no US office for them. They do have a website @ http://www.nakashima.co.jp/
Rudder shafts and rudder tie bar: This weekend I brought down some 220 grit emery cloth and sent my 15 year old son down there to polish them up, wipe them down and seal them with corrosion block. They we pitting something awful. Take a look when you check your rudder ground bonding.
That old Port engine keeps loosing coolant. After a quick but through inspection under the engine I went to the source of my leak before. The hot water heat exchanger, and yep there's a puddle of green under it. I pulled the heat exchanger hoses off and inspected the inside of the hose for tears and re-tightened the connections, the next time I see them, I will pick up some better quality constant torque 5/8" hose clamps and change them all. If there was more barb sticking out I would reverse double clamp them, but there's not.
Stainless Steel: Did you know there are over 500 types of Stainless Steel! And yes, Stainless Steel can rust. 300 series is marine grade stainless, 304 is better, 316 better yet. Numbering goes up to at least 450! Welding and manufacturing can often cause surface crevice corrosion and the impurities in the Stainless can cause internal galvanic corrosion in the material. Stainless Steel likes oxygen, and does poorly when deprived of it such as in underwater installations. This is another reason water is pushed through the stern tube of you boat, to oxygenate the water trapped in the stern tube around the shaft. Stress corrosion cracking and fatigue are also common problems. This is not a material to make a fuel tank out of. (Ours are made out of Aluminum.) Just a note: Polishing removes the impurities from the surface of the Stainless Steel. The more you polish, the less you have to polish.
While down at the IBEX show in Ft. Lauderdale I took the test to become an ABYC Certified "Electrical Marine Technician" and passed, who knew. I felt that if I was a contributor to the ABYC, PTC (Project Technical Committee) which reviews the standards and recommended practices for small craft I should at least be certified by them.
Please Take Note: If you send me an E-mail, please put "Maxum Owners Group" in the subject bar. Due to all of the junk mail I get, there are times when I trash mail in batches, if I don't recognize you E-Mail address I might just toss it by mistake, thanks. James
Here we go.
The "March Special" was a link to a website that showed a Towboat and a bridge. They are some of the best action boating photos I have ever seen. Well, we now have the entire set of photos here on this website @ http://members.fortunecity.com/billegates/towboat.html
And of course there is more, there's details from the captain of the towboat that went through just before this accident took place.
I've attached a JPEG photo to this E-mail, I couldn't resist.
Dear Bill, Please note that my new E-mail address is kennethmcunningham@attbi.com.
We are extremely excited about our new 4600LE. We about thirty days away from launch. We have had a bow thruster, cablemaster and oil xchangr installed.
It is interesting to note that many of the issues that you had addressed in your web site regarding the 4600 have been addressed. The battery charger is now a ProMariner ProMatic 3. The AC unit drains are connected to the shower sump. There is now remote temp sensor for the salon AC. There is an hour meter on the genset. Just thought you would like to know that Maxum does seem to respond to input. Thanks for a very informative and enjoyable website.
Sincerely,
Ken Cunningham kennethmcunningham@attbi.com
When I attempted to obtain from Maxum some Corian and cherry wood veneer to match that on our 1999 4600 SCB, so as to have a bar built in our main salon and cabinetry built above the refrigerator in the galley, Maxum's Customer Service Manager directed me to Islander Boating Center here on Long Island for pricing; Maxum's Customer Service Supervisor, Kenny Richardson, said Maxum was going to drop ship the material to me and have Islander bill me.
As I told Maxum, I need 3 square feet of Corian to inset into the top of the bar - for this Islander wanted $48.00 a square foot for the material itself. Their price for the veneer was even more outrageous - they wanted $48.00 a square foot for the veneer; as I need 135-138 square feet of veneer their price came to nearly $6,650.00 for the material alone. I told Islander, politely, what they could do with their materials and where they could store them.
Somewhat taken aback by the sheer effrontery of these people I called Kenny Richardson at Maxum, told him what had happened, explained that I had acted as a GC on several large construction projects, and had had 1 1/2 inch bull nosed custom made granite tops installed for under $45.00 a running foot (not a square ft).
1. Ken told me that he had been in construction, and agreed that the prices I had been quoted were somewhat out of line; and
2. That he would try to get Islander to reduce their prices to reasonable ranges, and
3. If he could not do so he would look around for someone else I could deal with to obtain the materials.
Kudos to Ken and Maxum and boos to Maxum's local deal (Islander). Never will I deal with Islander again!
Stan Gewanter Smgewanter@aol.com
Well it's still on going. I was told "they would make it right" and I believe them. James. To those of you who asked about this, If anyone has a "specific" electrical question fell free to ask.
This E-Mail was sent from US Marine to me in May, 2002. I meant to send you an email late last week to let you know we continue to meet, now three times a week to review the fuse situation. Last week we looked at every cut slip for every boat and I can tell you we are on the edge of a final decision. I know I probably sound like a broken record but we really want to make sure we are taking the prudent steps with this deal. I will contact you as soon as we go along.
Best regards!!
B-W Velvet Drive 5000 series transmission. I'm not certain where I was in my transmission problems when I last wrote to you. Quick refresher- '98 41SCA, 400 hp 502 cu in, B-W Velvet Drive transmissions. Problem: both transmissions overheating and leaking, port replaced in '98 while starboard was rebuilt, port resealed in '00. Then in '01 I couldn't run more than 2 hours without the port overheating again. The drill was turn off, open engine hatch, let cool, restart, run 2 hours and repeat. But it didn't leak! Then mid-season it began leaking like a sieve when it overheated. I was prepared to contact a lawyer but gave finding a solution one more try. My wife Terre couldn't believe I was this cool about it.
Very long story short as possible - I learned through (intentionally left blank) that in order to get counter rotation in the port transmission B-W added a gear. The additional gear increased heat, plus changed the fluid dynamics with neither being compensated for by a larger heat exchanger or higher capacity pump (the solution). B-W learned about this calling on Transmissions Unlimited and another company in MI to find a solution. Evidently these are the two companies that B-W turns to when it has a problem. Well, they did and B-W tested and approved their solution, taking it to Mercruiser, saying they'd provide the parts if Mercruiser would pay for the installation. Merc's reply, "No way". B-W responded, "Your problem then!"
Just a shot in the dark, I called BOATUS consumer affairs and spoke with Raymond Rose. Good guy. After giving him my boat specs I began explaining the problem when he interrupted to tell me that my port transmission was overheating and leaking. Was he psychic? He explained that BOATUS was receiving complaints about this particular model, 5000 series, and that members weren't receiving any help from Mercruiser. He also said that BOATUS was disappointed in getting members with the problem to respond to published requests. I gave Ray the names of Transmissions Unlimited, Treasure Cove Marina (now Marine Max), who'd done all my work, plus one other person that I knew with the same problem. When I called him back two weeks later he had added 11 names as a result of the three I had given him. He said that BOATUS was preparing a letter to Regal Beloit, the purchaser of B-W's transmission division, on behalf of all the named members regarding the problem, requesting they take responsibility and address the problem. I received my copy of BOATUS's letter but never to this day have I received a response from Regal Beloit. Ray said recently that they never responded to them either.
Then in casual conversation with a fellow yacht club member, he mentioned that (intentionally left blank) the past president of the (intentionally left blank), who is also the president of (intentionally left blank), was at one time high up in the B-W corporation and that (intentionally left blank) might be able to help me.
I e-mailed (intentionally left blank), who responded telling me that he had helped develop the 5000 series transmission. He also explained that Mercruiser made several changes from the original design that caused most of the problems. (intentionally left blank) confirmed everything that I'd learned from Transmissions Unlimited, adding that the counter rotation also caused the fluid to foam compounding the cooling problem since foamy liquids don't transfer heat well. He further confirmed possible solutions, none of which were inexpensive.
I made one last call to Ray at BOATUS who told me that one member had complained so much to Mercruiser until they gave him a new transmission. What the heck. Now understand, Jame, that I love my wife and she's a great person. But I lovingly refer to her as "the bitch from hell". She's worse than a pit bull when she gets hold of something like this. I hadn't tuned her loose on Mercruiser . . . . yet.
Anyway, from earlier problems, I had the phone number of Mike Selover (See-lover), supposedly head of Mercruiser warranty service. Mercruiser's phone system is worse than a banks because they don't want to talk to their end user customers. I was prepared when I got Mike's assistant, but didn't show my full hand. I explained my particular problem, the sequence of events then went into problem's causes along with the solutions. She played the corporate warranty game not offering much hope until I played one of my aces, telling her that I had my information in writing from several reliable sources, one an unnamed former B-W employee. That got her attention and of course she wanted to know my sources which I refused to divulge. I did excerpt and reword (intentionally left blank) e-mail and sent it to her. She called back the next day and asked what I wanted. I really shocked her when I said I want my boat replaced. I let that soak in for a moment during the dead silence. Then I told her that I knew Mercruiser wanted to keep this low key because it didn't have a recall (yet), so it was taking care of very dissatisfied, vocal customers. I continued, saying that I was prepared to see this thru until l got satisfaction, meaning I could use my boa without fear of transmission failure which under certain conditions could be deadly.
The end result was a new transmission was installed two weeks before the labor day weekend. We paid for installation, however, I know from the low bill that Mercruiser must have subsidized it. Labor Day weekend we ran over 3 hours each way to Cleveland and back without a problem then a few short trip later. I'm still holding my breath for this season.
James, I'd appreciate your not using the names of these people except Ray Rose at BOATUS but you can have anyone e-mail me or call me and I'll give them everything I have. Also, edit this epistle as needed if you want to use it.
On another note, during the Cedar Point Boat Show last year, my wife Terre and I were on a '00 41 SCA and were, well, disappointed isn't strong enough. In comparison, our 2 year old boat is considerably better all a round than the '00. It looked worse than a Bayliner at its worse. Based on what we saw, we couldn't recommend a new 41 SCA to a friend. Too, we didn't go on any other Maxum during the show either so my comparison is 41 SCA only. There's a '99 37 SCR in our marina and he's very pleased.
Lord, I love the web site, though I haven't visited in several months until recently.
You are to be commended. I can see from your tenaciousness with alternator that you and my wife would be very good friends. Maybe this year I can get in enough runs without any problems to get you some performance specs for our boat and engine.
I'm also glad you and your family had a wonderful and save circle trip. You should share that adventure with Lakeland Boating or Boating. It won't pay for gas but it may make a big dent in that bill. In fact, an angle would be from your wife's perspective; radically different that your and the children's. TMatthews@alink.com Terre Matthews
Please Take Note: If you send me an E-mail, please put "Maxum Owners Group" in the subject bar. Due to all of the junk mail I get, there are times when I trash mail in batches, if I don't recognize your E-Mail address I might just toss it by mistake, thanks. James
This is the last of the "Free" E-mail's,
from June forward E-mail's will only be sent to paid subscribers
The majority of us have agreed to a one time lifetime $75.00 payment
The website has moved, and 95% of it is now reformatted, I am also rereading everything for errors and inserting new material as I go, This will take me an hour here and there for the month of May to complete. You need to do nothing new, just go to www.maxumowners.org
Here's how it will work.
Those of you who send in the $75.00 will continue to get the monthly E-mail's.
Those who choose not to send in the $75.00 will not receive the monthly E-mail's.
The website will still be free and open to everyone.
This one E-mail was indicative of your thoughts to me. Thank You all. James
Dear James:
I vote in favor of the lifetime subscription concept. I sincerely appreciate the immense effort that you put into this site and I can't see further burdening you with having to track subscription expiration dates. The knowledge and advice that I have received from this site is perhaps that the best bargain that I've ever received when it comes to boating. Thanx, Ken
Please send your check made out to "James Clausen" for $75.00 to:
James Clausen
7067 Villa Estelle Drive
Orlando, Fl 32819
407-351-1062
billegates@aol.com
Here we go.
Ongoing electrical work with Maxum,
They say "Any Day Now," they, Maxum, have said that for about half a year now.
(1) Contradictory and inaccurate electrical wiring diagrams.
Maxum has supplied to the owners of their "Sports Yachts" with contradictory and inaccurate wiring diagrams, which unless physically checked on boat would lead the owner to believe that their boat is properly wired. Maxum has had knowledge of this for over one year and has done nothing to correct the situation or notify owners of the problem.
(2) Missing Fuses.
I pointed out to Maxum's Electrical Engineers, three of them, that there were fuses shown in the Maxum Electrical Drawings that were not installed in our boat, ABYC Section E-9.11 as shown on figure 11, and figure 15. Maxum has verified the lack of fuses in our boat. Maxum has reviewed the Maxum/US Marine "boat build book" and verified that the (4) fuses shown in the Maxum drawing were indeed to have been installed in the 4600 SCB boats. Maxum has further verified that no 4600 SCB has had these fuses installed and further suspects that NO Maxum yacht has ever had theses fuses installed.
In a message dated 11/9/01 3:58:01 PM, rrobinso@usmarine.com writes: That he agrees that there are (4) missing fuses on the Maxum boats. (these are high current fuses, about 300 amps)
(3) Missing wiring.
Ground wire from the inverter battery to the negative battery bus is missing on many boats. This missing wire prevents the inverter battery from recharging without a source of AC power, and prohibits it from recharging from the engines alternators via the battery isolator.
(4) Inadequate ratings on installed devices.
Further, your battery isolator is rated for 120 amps on its nameplate. The alternator supplied with the engine is rated to supply 130 amps. Actual test current is 142 to 143 amps. I have contacted the vendor of this battery isolator. I am satisfied that there is little danger due to this unfortunate mistake, but I again bring it to your attention and ask for a time is of the essence decision as to how you intend to proceed to correct this additional problem.
Mr. Robinson, regarding the 120 amp rated isolator used in a circuit rated at producing 130 amps which in fact was measured producing in excess of 140 amps. I find your statement that "you have contacted the manufacturer of the isolator and they do not see the application as a problem or threat to the isolator." This statement misses the point, the rating of this isolator is inadequate for the application, period. Your response in addressing a position other than that of "will the isolator fail" is required. I suspect we can agree that you would not put a switch rated at 5 amps in a circuit that draws 15 amps? Your previous engineer agreed that he did not know that the alternators rating had been increased to 130 amps in the 450C engine. Hence the original use of the 120 amp isolator. Additionally, I have also spoken to "the manufacturer of the isolator" and I feel confident with their assessment that "they do not see the application as a problem or threat to the isolator." Again this is not the point, the point is "the lack of design" since the larger 130 amp alternator was never considered in the design of this 120 amp circuit. Obviously it was not. What do you intend to do about this? If your answer is nothing, I will assume you will be willing to pay any additional moneys in the cost of insuring our vessels due to this situation and will be willing to defend against any electrical related faults, and with this knowledge, owners will be forced to devolve this shortcoming when selling their vessels under "full disclosure." I assume you will be willing to "make up the difference" in their resale price?
(5) "Unsheathed" wiring.
The sheathing is a requirement of ABYC 9.11.2.1 to which you are using exception 2. This exception specifically states, and I paraphrase here. If you are not providing a fuse between the alternator and a connection source other than a battery the conductor must be sheathed, the proper fuse protection has no bearing, as you are using the exception NOT TO fuse this side of the isolator. I have sent Trevor Richardson a fax on this drawing from the ABYC manual for his review.
Referring to the alternator power wiring. As the exception to 9.11.2.2 states, the wire must be sheathed, which it is not.
(6) UN-Bonded equipment.
The green bonding wire is missing on many; boats rudder posts, anchor windless, inverters.
In an attempt to solve these problems without outside assistance I have invited Maxum's Electrical Engineer down to our boat months ago. At that time we discussed the ABYC and NMMA Electrical Standards pertaining to the Maxum boats as well as reviewed electrical drawings for the Maxum 4600 SCB. Trevor Richardson, Maxum's electrical engineer has agreed that, the (4) main power fuses shown in the Maxum Owners Supplement book are missing.
US Marine. (as this problem runs into other lines than Maxum) Please consider yourself on notice and in a "time is of the essence" situation in order to identify the fix to these oversights. We both agree the problems outlined above are safety hazards. I feel that they must be corrected at once on all the boats in the Maxum line.
Is your Rudder Post bonded to your boats bonding system?
Probably not. If not, your Rudder is being eaten away!
For that matter is your anchor windless bonded with a green bonding wire to your boats internal bonding system? Probably not again. Does your boat have the proper high current short circuit protection as dictated by ABYC and NMMA? Probably not again. And here's the biggest question now that you know, do you care? Your insurance company sure will if you have a problem, and if you do lets hope it only the boat that is hurt. Jc
Ref: ZF HSW 800 transmissions
From: Doug & Ann Kendrick, MAXUM 4100 SCR owners.
Ann and I have just returned from a six-week cruise from NC to Merritt Island, FL. Then back to the St., Johns River and as far south as Lake George, and then up the ICW to home. The only sour note was a "blown" transmission in Merritt Island (over $7000 to replace) that held us up for ten days. Have you heard about the ZF HSW 800 transmission being fragile? I have replaced both Port and Starboard transmissions so far in five years and 830 hours running. Each cost about $7000 by the time it was all over including hauling the boat, etc.
The MAXUM 4100 SCR propulsion system uses a "V" drive. This means that the driveshaft passes under the motor and through the transmission to the drive coupling. To remove the transmission one must pull the drive shaft back about 18 inches or so. There isn't room ahead of the transmission to move it forward to clear the
shaft. To pull the driveshaft back the propeller must be removed because it would
hit the rudder when the shaft slides back.
The propeller (24" x 22") is marginally large to take off underwater and the shaft might leak when pulled back as one must undo the seals to slide the shaft. In addition, the work is easier on dry land, especially moving the 200 pound transmission which is best done with a forklift such as used to launch and retrieve boats.
All in all a complicated and expensive job.
Doug Kendrick MAXUM 4100 SCR DKENDRICK@nc.rr.com
Gel Coat Stains
When you've asked just about everyone you can think of, ask the manufacturer.
And that just what I did, I called Cook Composites the manufacturer of the US Marines Gel Coat used in the Maxum Boats. I spoke to their Gel Coat representative, Larry and discussed, the problems some owners are experiencing (myself included) with "Yellow Deck" and "Styrene Blotching." Terms Larry was somewhat unfamiliar with. He did however know of the problem and was an additional source of information on the subject. Fact of life #1, Gel Coats yellow and loose their gloss when exposed to UV rays. The same type of fading happens with paint on a house and on a car. What can we do to slow this down and possibly prevent it? Wash the boat often, washing removes the pollutants that drop on the boat that were in the air, sulfur from the power plant, exhaust emissions, bird droppings, etc. Keep wax on the boat, be sure to use a UV stabilized wax, or one with a UV stabilizer in it. Regular wax without UV stabilizers or UV stabilization protects for 2 to 3 days and then stops. High priced polymer waxes are no better than regular waxes. Never use Pledge or similar products on a Gel Coat they contain oils which can penetrate the Gel Coat which is porous causing you tremendous staining. Rubbing compounds generally contain an amount of oil also, therefore you must always water flush the area after using a rubbing compound BEFORE applying wax. Now as to the question, does Gel Coat contain Styrene? Larry says yes, BUT the Styrene is Polymerized by the time you get it. Why use Styrene anyway? Larry's the Styrene is necessary to connect the polymer bonds in the material so that it can properly catalyze. Also, additional Styrene is sometimes added in the building process by the Boat Manufacturer as a thinning agent depending on the material density, flow through the gun and the temperature.
With all that said what are the stains really. My best guess is that the stains on the decks are probably Gel Coat that was not waxed and the "Yellow Deck" is Gel Coat that was not waxed with a UV Protective sealant. There is a smaller chance that the problem is Styrene. The blotches are most likely caused by fiberglass repair while in the plant, they have a distinctive spray pattern to them. The repairs were most likely voids in the molding, very common in the boat building process. The repairs should have been UN detectable, and indeed were until the UV hit them and they changed color.
Now that I have them, how do you get the discoloration out. Soap and water was the first thing Larry said. Tough Enough Bilge Cleaner was the choice of US Marine. Larry said to go through your cleaners from mildest to the strongest. As you exhaust your cleaners he suggested using both families of organic stain's the first would be Acetone or other fast evaporating thinners theses are in the Aliphatic family. The second would be Xylene or Tylnene these are in the Aromatic family. Larry says Like dissolves Like. Meaning you have to find out what you have that's causing the stain and find a like product to lift it. In the later part of our conversation he suggested fine sandpaper. The end.
Woodwork bleached by the sun
James, I've noticed that our entertainment center has been partially bleached out by the sun. It was originally cherry color and part of it is almost blonde now. Do you have any recommendations or solutions to getting it back in shape. Thanks for letting me hear from you as soon as possible if you or anyone else has had the same problem of bleaching. Myron. myron@alaskanfur.com
Website Maintenance Section, (Woodwork)
The Interior Woodwork in later model boats is dyed, not stained, just when in the production serial numbers is not known. The woodwork must be treated with care, and one tip from a factory representative is to add soft coverings to the ends of the vacuum to prevent scratching and denting the woodwork. I have a Cherry Interior, and use Van Goug, Lt. Oxide Red, to match the Pin Rail color VGH53390, Available @ Cheap Joe’s 800-227-2788 for about three bucks. I use a Minwax "Blend-Fill" pencil #7 for marks on the cherry. I recently was doing another job and gave the filler pencil to Patti, when I came back to look, and look I did, I found no trace of her handy work. I use Miniwax, Poly Cyrillic. Clear Satin, (water base) to seal the wood. For real damage call in a professional or if you want to become a professional, call Mohawk Finish Company and ask for their catalog, @ 518-843-1380.
The wood on the boat is just that, fine wood furniture, when left in the sun, it will get "bleached out" and will be required to be refinished. Jc
More ongoing maintenance Items and tidbits of information
Hey James,
Just a couple of experiences to add to your archive!
I own a 4100 SCR with Cummins 370Bs.
I was in NYC at Chelsea Piers and bumped into a fellow 4100 owner... We hit it off pretty well cause we both bought new and had like experiences. One worth mentioning was WATER IN OUR ENGINE ROOM BILGE. And we came up with same solution independently. In the storage compartments under the rear seats and in my fender wells on the Transom, each has a drain tube that went into the bilge. We both created a sleeve with two nipples on it and spliced it into the Main drain tubes that runs from the back corners of the engine hatches' rim or trough (whatever you want to call it) and goes directly overboard. That took care of a lot of it. But another leak was at the middle aluminum cross hatch support. The water was also leaking between the cross support ends and the gunnel or trough for the engine hatch. At that juncture, the wall of the trough tapers down to allow the cross support to fit flush. At that point, I used some boat life caulk. Has helped an awful lot in the amount of water in my bilge. Had already ran thru all of
my thru hulls...so the drill was tedious.
RAW WATER IMPELLER REPLACEMENT AND COST SAVINGS:
Again, I have the Cummins 370Bs. I just did this drill. I was told that I needed Cummins Impellers. So I ordered them... and got them for dealer cost at like $105 apiece (Suggested Retail price was like $147) - maybe I was being taken for ride here also, but I don't think so, saw the invoice.
I thought was high and found out that it is!
My raw water pumps are Sherwoods and I could have gotten the same impeller from the Boat supply store for $54. Now, the Sherwood books at the supply store didn't say that that was a replacement impeller for my 370B, but it was an exact match.
Second....my starboard engine impeller is a real pain to change cause the pump was on the outboard side. So room and leverage were issues. Also, two high pressure fuel or oil lines exasperated my problems as they interfered with the Impeller removing tool's handle and prevented me from getting anything else on the impeller to remove it, such as pliers or whatever. So I had to remove the fuel line and finally got the Impeller tool to work. HOWEVER, THE GOOD NEWS IS, the exact impeller is also available from CAT! Only this one has a threaded end on the outboard side, making the Impeller tool obsolete. All I have to do next time is screw in the correct size and thread bolt, and she'll come right out. The CAT impeller (which is made by
Sherwood as well, but not available to retail) costs about $85... an additional $30 for the threaded end I guess... Considering the hassle...well worth it, for the Starboard engine anyway.
I will say, that the Cummins kit did come with a new rubber O-ring (as thick as rubber band, maybe) for the rear access plate of the pump.... but I'll be damned if it is worth the additional $50 - $100.
If anyone cares about this for their 370Bs, just get in touch with me and I'll gladly track down and give you the part numbers for the exact Sherwood impeller either with or without the threaded end. You can reach me at billb30@hotmail.com .
Best wishes to you and everyone this boating season.
Sincerely Bill Bauer billb30@hotmail.com
Please Take Note: If you send me an E-mail, please put "Maxum Owners Group" in the subject bar. Due to all of the junk mail I get, there are times when I trash mail in batches, if I don't recognize you E-mail address I might just toss it by mistake, thanks. James
If you would like to be removed from this E-mailing list send me,
James, an E-mail @BilleGates@aol.com and request to be removed.
Our Rudder posts should be, but are not connected to boats internal bonding system. As per American Boat and Yacht Council Standards. ABYC E-2 2.5.8 "Rudderposts shall be cathodically bonded by means of a flexible conductor positioned to allow full rudder movement without stressing the cathodic bonding conductor or its connection." If you do not have a green wire from your rudder post you are using your rudder post and rudder as a zinc and it is being eaten away. Have a green #6 stranded bonding wire installed as shown below asap? Jc
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In a message dated 05/16/2002 3:09:54 PM, judith.hasenauer@bghpc.com writes:
We have a problem maybe you can help us with. We are about to install our fourth door catch/lock for the sliding door into the salon. We have lectured everyone on not slamming the door. This last time it broke and I mean broke in that the latch on the door was in pieces, occurred when the seas were rough (3-4). One theory is that there is a slight space and the wave action forces the door back and forth. We live one lot off the ICW in Ft Lauderdale and the boat is bounced around a lot setting up this door for the break. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Judith Hasenauer >>
I also had to replace the door latch. Ours locked me inside at the dock. Not too much fun to be sure.
The following is from the website in the "Interior" Section. There's also a photo there.
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Curved Glass Sliding Door, ours has eaten the locking jaws in the sliding door twice. When the lock failed the first time on our 4600 SCB, it gave no warning. It locked me inside and would not release until I took out the inside door handle and "struck" the drive pin with a blow from a ball peen hammer. The second time the jaws again fell apart, they ended up falling into the bottom of the door channel, the locksmith could not remove them. The door is supplied to Maxum from "Taylor Made out of New York" the whole door is part # 745901700, the lock is part # 510.121 and the lock carries a price tag of $225.75. If you need one call and order it from Robin Gordon @ 518-773-9352. Robin says, If you remove the sliding door and put it on a table. You should be able to remove the side panel and get to the dropped hardware. Robin also says the wait for a new glass panel is 3 weeks, I was afraid to ask the price. If your stuck like we were and want your boat locked up, you can drill a hole in the lower part of the sliding door track , there are already a few there to drain water in the channel, just not in the right place to lock the door. We just drilled another hole and used a brass shank padlock through the hole to lock the door. This is a great second lock if you winterize your boat.
More Information on Curved Glass Sliding Door: I received a note from a source that, you can remove the channel holding the lock without removing the door from the track. "Unscrew the large Phillips head screw on the bottom, and strike the frame firmly. Leave the top screw in you don't need to remove it. The metal will pull away from the gasket. Remove the dropped pieces and Gently reinsert the gasket then the metal frame." I tried fishing for the pieces with a magnet, no luck they are all non ferrous. Note: you should check your fixed catch on the door frame, this catch worked loose and dropped down on our boat causing the door when closed to "smash" into the lock on the door frame. This also caused the holes which hold the lock to enlarge. We removed the screws holding the catch onto the door frame and applied "locktight" medium strength to the screws to hold them tight, you should do the same. And we used thin SS washers on the door frame to hold the lock. When removing the locking jaws use a screw driver as shown to prevent the jaws from falling down into the door channel. To make a perfect alignment of the jaws and the catch use two strips of tape, place one on the door frame and one on the slider. Mark the center of the jaws and the center of the catch, when that slide them together they should match. So far so good. 12/99
I just reviewed my 4 photos of the sliding door lock, and they don't show anything more than you can see on your own boat. The key to the lock was alignment, I did this using two pieces of masking tape on the outside edge of the door and marked the center of the center of the receiver on the door. I adjusted the jaws on the door frame to center on the receiver. Because the lock was hit so hard by the jaws a number of times due to misalignment I had to use washers on the screws that hold them in the frame but they were thin and recessed well and did not interfere with the closure. I put a locktight on all the screws to prevent them from moving. I put locktight on the screws for the jaws also. It's been about two years and no problems since. I'm passing my good luck along to you to use on your door. Jc
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Water in the bilge, Dear Bill, I read with interest the E-mails regarding water in the bilge in a 4100SCB. I had a 4100SCB (recently traded for a 4600SCB), and also had water in the bilge. It turned out to be coming from the unsealed screws in the rub rail on the swim platform. In some cases the holes were drilled but no screw
inserted. The same problem was on my new 4600. My boat was tied up at the dealers dock and came loose and damaged the swim platform and needed repair. When the rub rail was removed sure enough there were screws missing. Water would come in during deceleration from the following wake.
thanks for a great site, Mike Stevenson. mstevenson@mangobay.com
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AC in 4100 SCB's & 4600 SCB's, clean sweet air. Well I hope so, I just cut out three of my doors and installed 12" x 4" sidewall return grills in them.
Since I was pushing AC into these rooms it had to get back to the return grill in the master bedroom somehow. And with the doors closed at night there was just no way that was going to happen. So I got out my saber saw and went to work. By the way the master bathroom door had a grill installed in the bottom of the wall, (the 4th door is curved). Photos to be put on the website soon. Jc
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Please Take Note: If you send me an E-mail, please put "Maxum Owners Group" in the subject bar. Due to all of the junk mail I get, there are times when I trash mail in batches, if I don't recognize you E-mail address I might just toss it by mistake, thanks. James
If you would like to be removed from this E-mailing list send me,
James, an E-mail @BilleGates@aol.com and request to be removed.
July 2002 - Maxum Owners E-mail
Visit our Website lately?
Maxumowners.org
This E-mail talks about:
Ongoing electrical work with Maxum
An article by "GLCC's" Great Lakes Cruising Clubs Fleet Surgeon on getting
and keeping your boat's drinking water fresh and safe.
Mathers controls & Mathers electronic sync boards
Replacement Window Blinds
Master Mariners, Product Specialist, Chief of the Boat
Position Filled:
3500 SCR - Bryce Nord, is out of Riva, MD and owns "Senseless" a 3500 SCR Special Edition with Twin Gas 6.2 Engines, & Velvet Drive series 5000 Transmissions. bgnord@mrfuton.com
Positions Open:
4200 SCR - , Position Open If you own a 4200 SCR and can help your fellow owners let us know.
4100 SCB - , Position Open If you own a 4100 SCB and can help your fellow owners let us know.
More ongoing maintenance Items and tidbits of information.
Here we go.
Ongoing electrical work with Maxum,
Maxum say they have submitted their proposal for the electrical fix to the Coast Guard for their approval.
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In a message dated 05/10/2002 11:04:12 AM, TRIXIE Oh writes
Our Boats Fresh Water System. I've read through the "plumbing " problems on your web page, although I'm sure some of these may apply, we have a terrible "onion" smell whenever we run ANY water on our boat. We started to notice this at the end of the Summer 2 years ago. We boat all year on fresh water. We have flushed, for hours, and used every water treatment known to man. We have even let the boat sit, with bleach, in the fresh water tank, for days, before flushing out. Our boat still smells like onions. Someone suggested that there might be a section of hose that doesn't flush all the way through, trapping antifreeze or bacteria, does anyone have any more info. on this? Any info you may have on either of these problems would be greatly appreciated. We don't feel comfortable using the boat while we have these ongoing problems.
Thank you, Bob and Lee Obermeier, Lake of the Ozarks, MO.
Just to get with the program I made some onion soup tonight. No, this is new to me. It sounds like you have done all the right things, so bear with me as I ask some questions. It is my understanding that the smell is from the tap water. AND that the same smell comes from every fresh water outlet in the boat.
> Question 1.- Does your water still smell like onions when you are attached to
> the docks water and have the internal pump off? Run the water for at least 15
> minutes and smell.
> Question 2.- Did you clean out the strainer on the fresh water pump?
>
I include an article from the Great Lakes Cruising Club on Safe Drinking Water on Boats from GLCC Fleet Surgeon, Jack Bailey, MD, take it away Jack,
Safe drinking water on cruising boats is obviously very important to all of us. In order to obtain some expert advice, I recently consulted a specialist on the subject, Dr. Penny Sutcliffe, Medical Officer of Health for Sudbury and district. Dr. Sutcliffe has kindly supplied the information, which follows:
Spring Cleaning of Drinking Water Storage Tanks
a.- Whether you are opening up the summer cottage or your local boat for the season, it is a must to clean and disinfect your water supply system.
b.- Thoroughly flush out any antifreeze that was used to winterize your boat's water tank. Always use non-toxic antifreeze to winterize.
c.- Super chlorinate by filling the water tank with a solution of 1 ounce of unscented household chlorine bleach per 1-gallon tank capacity.
d.- Turn on all faucets one at a time until a bleach odor is noticed. Keep the system pressurized and let the chlorinated solution stand for 3-4 hours in the entire water distribution system.
e.- Remove the aerators from the faucets and drain the tank through the sinks. This will allow for the clear flow of any bio-film that may have built up in the water lines.
f.- Refill the water tanks repeatedly with fresh water and flush until the water runs clear and smells clean. Use a chlorine test kit, if available, to ensure that the chlorine has been diluted to safe levels (0.1 - 0.2 parts per million). Never Assume Dock Water is Safe
g.- Before refilling your fresh water tank at any marina always ask questions.
h.- If your marina attendant does not know the source of the water supply, never assume it is safe to drink. Marinas located in small or remote centers may have their own private water systems. Although these systems may have some form of treatment, very few will meet the strict treatment or filtration requirements imposed on municipal systems.
i.- If there is any doubt about the safety of the water, boil it for at least one minute. The water can be cooled and stored in clean containers.
j.- As an alternative treat each tankful with chlorine bleach. Add 1 ounce of unscented household chlorine bleach per 50-gallon tank capacity. Stir to mix and let stand for at least 2-3 hours.
k.- Test the mixture with your chlorine test kit to ensure a free available chlorine residual between 0.1 and 0.2 parts per million.
* Individuals who do not like the taste of chlorinated water may consider the use of an activated carbon water filter after treatment.
* It should be noted that chlorination alone does not kill intestinal parasites such as giardia or cryptosporidium.
* Before using any marina water always turn the hose to waste for at least 5-10 minutes to clear the lines. The same organisms that like the water lines in your boat also like a dock supply line sitting in the hot sun.
* Maintain a logbook of marinas that you used for refilling water tanks. If your family comes down with an intestinal disorder that may be water related, contact your nearest health department.
* Never use untreated surface water for any domestic purpose.
Robert Vlick rvlick@earthlink.net our 4100 SCR Master Mariner adds,
The only thing that I would add is that if you are using a charcoal filter, watch how long you allow the water to sit in the holding tank "Untreated". Charcoal filters do a good job of purifying the water, but it will go sour in a short period of time and it too will grow the bad stuff. As I understand it, I don't have one, but a UV system is the best solution to keep the drinking water pure and odor free. The least expensive solution is to find a water treatment chemical, West Marine used to sell one called "Sweet Water", and it helped remove the chlorine taste.
James Clausen adds, we flush our fresh water tank often. Once things take hold and "grow" in a sealed polypropylene tank, you may kill them but their dead bodies fall to the bottom of the tank and slosh around for the life of the boat. When traveling and using the boat daily we simply taste the dock water and decide to fill the tank via our a portable charcoal filter or directly from the hose. If there is a hint of smell or bad taste I go through the charcoal filter. When the water is sweet I just shove the hose end in. The problem with using the charcoal filter all the time is that it strips the chlorine out of the water and then the water goes sour within a couple of week to a month. This is down south in sunny Florida, up North you get a bit more time. As careful as we are we flush the whole system out every three months. We turn off the hot water heater before we flush the internal tank. If the heaters electrical element is exposed to the air when powered up it will self destruct. Using the boats internal water pump we empty the internal tank then fill it 1/4 of the way and empty again, then we refill the tank. Then we hook up the dock water to the internal connection and open every water faucet in the boat, don't forget the fresh water washdown, and outside sink if you have one, open ALL hot and cold faucets, yes both of them. Run them at least 15 minutes. Start in the stern and turn them off going foward. If you have an ice maker let two full containers pass through it. We've installed a "whole boat filter" on the internal dock connection. If were on board for the whole Summer everyday I use the charcoal cartridge, when docksucking for extended periods, I have a cotton 20 mil coarse filter that I use when we are weekenders. I've never had to add anything to the water tank, even when up north for a winter season, we used indoor heater storage for the boat when on the Erie canal. I used to feel funny flushing my fresh water tanks on the dock for 15 or so minutes, but I never got sick from my boats water, and neither have my guests. Jim Clausen billegates@aol.com
PS: bottled water is dated to be good, "stable" for 2 years.
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In a message dated 05/10/2002 11:04:12 AM, TRIXIE Oh writes:
Last week, we noticed our boat listing to the port side. I realize the kitchen, bath, etc., are on that side and may add more weight, but this was noticeable under way. We have searched every reachable compartment, no significant water. We feel it is forward in the cabin, somewhere we can't get to. Is there a compartment, or section of the boat that we can't see/reach that could be holding water without letting it return to the bilge? Any info you may have on either of these problems would be greatly appreciated. We don't feel comfortable using the boat while we have these ongoing problems.
Thank you, Bob and Lee Obermeier, Lake of the Ozarks, MO.
Your boats lists, again this is new. First check your fuel tanks. This I have seen boats list when they were unequal. Second when running if the trim tabs are not equal you will list, third if you are not equally loaded you will list, (too much beer on one side), or, if say I was on one side of your boat. James.
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In a message dated 05/27/2002 10:03:55 PM, kennethmcunningham@attbi.com writes:
Dear James, The shakedown of Sweet Dreams III continues.
A few major glitches.
The Mathers Microcommanders will not function in the warm up mode or synchronization mode. Bad microcircuit boards or bad info from alternators? Tried to start the genset yesterday and zip,zero,nadda. Wouldn't even turn over.
I have a suspicion that there may be a gremlin in the electrical system causing these problems. I am wondering if there is an alternator issue or a battery charging problem? 12 volt water system is dreadful. Nearly got burned the first time that I took a shower with the 12 volt pump. I think I have the dealer talked in to replacing the water pump and accumulator tank with the new Jabsco Sensor Max VSD 4.5 GPM pump. I'll let you know how this works out. Jabsco claims that this pump will eliminate hot/cold water pulsing issues. We'll see.
Have numerous area of gelcoat crazing and gouges. The gouges and I can blame on the dealer.
Several other issues including bad fluxgate compass, dinged up command bridge table, missing bridge component covers and fasteners. I am confident that these issues will be resolved. Most dealers here on the Great Lakes have concentrating on getting boats in the water. It will most likely take one or two Great Lakes boating seasons to complete our shakedown.
I have a couple mystery switches on the dash console. The amber light lights on the docking light switch but doesn't turn anything on that I can see. The switch immediately adjacent to it labeled courtesy light (no amber indicator) does nothing. The courtesy light next to that turns on bridge low level lights and the deck lights by the windlass.
I am wondering if these switches were functional on the original 4600 SCB. Docking lights were an option. I'm also wondering if the switch next to it was for the radar arch lights.
The owner's manual leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to specific information regarding the 4600.
Maxum also seems a little slow in updating their website and parts website. I quite honestly did not even know the 4600LE existed until last September when I saw it at a boat show.
Have you heard any scuttle about a combined Bayliner/Maxum effort in yacht production ( 50' + ). I've heard a rumor that the new boat will be called Meridia (actually, Meridian)
Sincerely,Ken kennethmcunningham@attbi.com
Your problem with the Mathers Microcommanders might be that the alternators are Delco 21si's. The question is does the alternator have one large red wire and one smaller wire on the control plug or does it have one large red wire and two smaller control wires? If it has only on smaller wire that may be your problem. The Delco 21si is a self exciting regulator, this means (in the single wire mode) it has to initially create its own power to be able to operate and produce power, (read the website for more on this). Once started and advanced to over 1200 rpm everything should be OK. Let me know, Jc
Gen set, get the voltmeter out, the house should be the starting battery for the gen set.
Gremlins in the electrical system, could be!
12 volt water system is dreadful, yes but did you remove the flow restrictors as shown in the website?
Mystery switches on the dash console, yes one was for the lights on the bottom of the radar arch, the other was a blank, we used it for base lights we installed on the bridge. Jc
I've heard this too. Meridian or some such new name may be a boat line name for Maxum/Bayliner like Ford has Mustang. Its an emblem name, for a class of boats, good luck to them. As for the size, who can tell. Jc
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Replacement Blinds
In a message dated 06/01/2002 12:57:39 PM, Peter_Lorenz@msn.com writes:
<< Hi James, One of the salon blinds on my 4600 is falling apart (glue is dissolving due to sun I guess ). They are from Fashion Tech. Do you have a contact number because this sort of thing might be under warranty. I sure could use some help. Thanks, Peter.
Peter, I have the following information:
When searching for Fashion Tech. I pull up http://www.fashiontech.com
The E-mail I sent to Fashion Tech was returned, they may be out of business.
PS: Maxums "Parts Site" has no listing for Fashion Tech.
For boat blinds you can also use.
Blind & Shutter Factory Ft. Meyers Fl 800-256-7293
Custom Boat Blinds Ft. Lauderdale FL 954-763-6665
(E mail sent to Maxum, (US Marine) Parts Department follows) Blind replacement on our Maxum, (US Marine) boats. Our boats blinds were sold to you by, Fashion Tech; so the bottom of the blind says. I need to replace some of them as well as other Maxum owners. Could you specify what manufacturer, type and color was sold to US Marine for the Maxum boats over the years from 1997 to 2002. I will post your information to all the owners of these boats on our website. Thank You in advance.
Sorry for the late reply we, all six of us, were in Europe for three weeks just got back Saturday. Our dog, just before we left pawed our rear door blind and I glued it back together, it's starting to bother me when I look at it, its not really "right" so I will end up, like you replacing it. We're headed to the Bahamas on the boat for the month of July so this will be in Aug or so. Let me know how you make out and I might follow you. James
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Mathers controls & electronic sync boards
In a message dated 05/28/2002 3:11:34 PM, kklunder@yahoo.com writes:
I just found the web site and enjoyed reading many of the articles. I did not find anything on the 4200 SCR and was wondering if you herd anything about the syncs on the engines? I noticed that the 4600 and the 4200 ads mention syncs but they don't seem to exist (not
sure about 4600). When asked, the dealer hides behind legal "subject to change" wording at bottom. I wasn't sure if they are talking about a sync gauge or actual engine synchronizers.
I did discover on the 4200 that the Mathers controls actually have the electronic sync boards installed but not wired (a large waste of money on Maxum's part). I was able to wire these to the mag pick up using the pair for the tach (not the heater circuit) and they
work great. I also hooked up the wire for the green LED at the shifter that was already provided. I did find however that the boards were reversed from the recommended install provided by Mathers (lead on port, follow on starboard). Any questions I had were answered by a Mathers rep who's office was located in ZF Marines FT Lauderdale headquarters. He couldn't answer why Maxum didn't wire the units but thought that he might need to offer them more training since they are buying the expensive boards.
Thanks, Kurt Klunder
Kurt you are the man. We are looking for a "4200 Master Mariner" and other owners have asked about the sync boards that are not wired up. If you could explain how you did it, I will sent it to those who did ask and post it in the website.
How about signing up yourself and your 4200 SCR? There's a form on the website.
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Master Mariners, Product Specialist, Chief of the Boat
Position Filled:
3500 SCR - Bryce Nord, is out of Riva, MD and owns "Senseless" a 3500 SCR Special Edition with Twin Gas 6.2 Engines, & Velvet Drive series 5000 Transmissions. bgnord@mrfuton.com
Positions Open:
4200 SCR - , Position Open If you own a 4200 SCR and can help your fellow owners let us know.
4100 SCB - , Position Open If you own a 4100 SCB and can help your fellow owners let us know.
I had a lengthy phone conversation, over an hour, with Robert Cephas today and I wanted you to know what a help he was. That man knows more about a 4100 SCA than Maxum.
Thanks. TMatthews@alink.com
4100 SCA - Robert Cephas, owns "Delta Bravo " a 1998 4100 SCA, with 330 HP Cummins Diesels, he boats out of Wilmington, DE. Bob know the in's and out's of a 4100 SCA like few other owners, contact him @ robertcephas@snip.net
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Hello:
My name is Dave Mitchell and I own a 2002 Maxum 2700 SCR. We upgraded from our 2001 Maxum 2550 SCR. We enjoy the Maxum product and I can see the 31 footer on the horizon in a year or two. In the mean time, I was wondering if you can point me in the right direction. My documentation package from Maxum lacked any schematics for the vessel. There are schematics for instrumentation and engine, but none for AC power distribution or plumbing. It may seem easy enough to work without one however I think it is appropriate that documentation be complete. I have repeatedly asked the dealer for this and they have basically thrown their hands up and said Maxum will not provide it. I find that unlikely but do not have anyone to contact. Can you provide me with a contact in product support at Maxum Corp? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really enjoy your website, and have read each category front to back and have made a nice to-do list for my boat. Keep up the good work and happy cruising.
Dave Mitchell
I forwarded Daves request to "the right guy" at US Marine and....
Hi Dave..... if you will shoot me your address I will send you a manual. I
have one here in the office for you. Regards, Dave Crosby, Maxum Marine.
Talk about service! Thank you for your assistance, I just received a message from D.Crosby he will be sending me the information. Thanks again, Dave Mitchell. Davemitch56@hotmail.com
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Please Take Note: If you send me an E-mail, please put "Maxum Owners Group" in the subject bar. Due to all of the junk mail I get, there are times when I trash mail in batches, if I don't recognize you E-mail address I might just toss it by mistake, thanks. James
If you would like to be removed from this E-mailing list send me,
James, an E-mail @BilleGates@aol.com and request to be removed.
August 2002 - Maxum Owners E-mail
(everyone will get this complete Aug 2002 E-mail)
Visit our Website lately?
Maxumowners.org
This E-mail talks about:
Ongoing electrical work with Maxum
US Coast Guard; Safety Defect Reporting
More on Replacement Window Blinds
Maxum 1998 Velvet Drive Series 5000
Cruising
An Invitation to read and comment on our upcoming
Basic Marine Drivetrains Article
More ongoing maintenance Items and tidbits of information.
Such as, Why is a sextant called a sextant?
About us, James & Patti Clausen Summer.
Master Mariners, Product Specialist, Chief of the Boat
Positions Open:
4200 SCR - , Position Open If you own a 4200 SCR and can help your fellow owners let us know.
4100 SCB - , Position Open If you own a 4100 SCB and can help your fellow owners let us know.
Here we go.
Ongoing electrical work with Maxum,
Maxum say they have submitted their proposal for the electrical fix to the Coast Guard for their approval.
The US Coast Guard Recreational Safety Commission
Office of Boating as of 7/12/02 has no knowledge of these submitted fixes.
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US Coast Guard; Office of Boating Safety, Safety Defect Reporting
If you feel that you have a problem that the Dealer, or Manufacturer has not corrected, here another place to go.
If you own a boat, or plan to purchase one in the near future, you won't want to miss this section of the Office of Boating Safety Web site. We've provided a Tell Me About Boating page to link you directly to topics of interest. You can also navigate directly to Federal Requirements that pertain to Boat Owners.
You can learn about the Office of Boating Safety Product Assurance Division. This Division is responsible for developing Federal safety standards, investigating consumer complaints, interpreting Federal standards and much more.
The Product Assurance Division maintains two databases that are an invaluable resource for boat owners. You can search the Manufacturers Identification Code Database to find information about active, out of business and Canadian boat manufacturers. You can search the Recall (Campaigns) Database to locate information on manufacturer recalls of recreational boats and associated equipment. Consumers can also submit a Possible Safety Defect Report on-line to the U.S. Coast Guard through our Web site.
http://www.uscgboating.org/mf/mf_default.asp
Here is a link to the US Coast Guards Recall Database.
http://www.uscgboating.org/mf/mf_srchRecall.ASP
Boat US also has a site to input, as well as view this type of data.
http://www.boatamerica.org/recall/
If you are not a member of boat US; you should be, they work hard for the boat owner to protect your rights. Although they could lower their insurance rates a bit.
And of course your boat has a "Nameplate" which certifies that it was "NMMA CERTIFIED." This "certification" is based on the ABYC Standard and Recommended Practices fro small craft. Which in general exceeds the US Coast Guard office of boating safety requirements? You should be aware that the law, in general limits you to (5) years, (from date of original purchase)? To make a claim of any defect.
ABYC http://www.abyc.com/
And remember the NMMA is usually working in the best interest of the boat builder, not the boat owner.
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Follow-up information on Window Blinds:
Your Window Blinds can be matched by specifying:
LOUVERDRAPE CAROUSEL 3427 Antique White 7/16"
all with 2 ea. cord cleats per blind, pulls as specified.
4600 SCB
Part #
72765-01 Stb Salon 1 each 78 X 23.5 IS R W/HOLD DOWNS W/10" pull
72765-02 Port Salon 1 each 78 X 23.5 IS L W/HOLD DOWNS W/6" pull
72765-03 Aft Stb Salon 1 each 44 X 75 IS L W/HOLD DOWNS W/6" pull
72765-04 Aft Port Salon 1 each 44 X 75 IS R W/HOLD DOWNS W/6" pull
LOUVERDRAPE CAROUSEL 3427 Antique White 7/16"
all with 2 ea. cord cleats per blind, pulls as specified.
4100 SCB
Part #
74244-01 - 56/26 1 each 58 X 26 I.S. L W/HOLD DOWNS W/6" pull
74244-02 -56/26 1 each 58 X 26 I.S. R W/HOLD DOWNS W/6" pull
74244-03 (not found)
74244-04 (not found)
4200 SCA
Parts #
(not found)
Shade style, type and manufacturer information is common for all boats, unless green.
Hello Mr. Clausen --
According to our documentation, the blinds on the three Maxum Sport Yachts
(4100 SCA, 4100 SCB, & 4600 SCB) we produced between 1997 and 2001 did not
change from year to year (by model).
As you indicate in your correspondence, Fashion Tech (no resale only wholesale) was the manufacturer and supplier. (Try these sources)
Blind & Shutter Factory Ft. Meyers Fl 800-256-7293
Custom Boat Blinds Ft. Lauderdale FL 954-763-6665
You can reference part numbers on our www.maxumboatparts.com web-site, or
your dealer should be able to assist you with that information.
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Maxum product line
There is an interesting commentary on the future of the Maxum product line in the July issue of Power & Motoryacht magazine (page 16). I have been told by the dealer out here (Seattle), that the 4600 SCB is being discontinued.
Ron Riedasch "Sallie Fourth" Riedasch@aol.com
There is a great deal of information I come across on the Maxum Product line. It is not "secret," but more on the line of Company Confidential. Since this is an Owners Group, not a Buyers Group, I rarely include any of it until it becomes "Public Knowledge."
But here is some Public Knowledge; Cummins Marine is now owned/run by Mercury Marine, A Brunswick Company. Brunswick Owns Mercury, US Marine, Maxum, Sea Ray, Bayliner, Meridian, Boston Whaler, & Hatteras. In 2003 Westerbeke will be phased out as the Gen set of choice, and the Onan, (a Cummins product) will replace it. The 4100 and 4600's are no longer in production, but there is a bit of dealer stock, as it is sold off, weather it goes into production again or not, who knows.
And lets not forget Meridian, it sound like a weight loss drug, or another phone company. Seriously it's Meridian Yachts, a subsidiary of the US Marine Boat Group? http://www.thenewyacht.com
Could this be a combination the of Bayliner Yachts and Maxum Yachts? Eh, the clean answer is no.
Or is it just a name change for the 30 foot and up Bayliner product? Most likely, yes.
Most likely to be built in Arlington Washington, at the US Marine Bayliner plant, big surprise.
With models from 34 to 58 feet! Color, Arctic White. Look for a re-labeled 4788, a good selling, well made boat build by the "tribe", in there too.
I don't like to be teased, and neither do I suspect does anyone else putting down six figures.
Old boat with a new label? Same dead marketing? Maybe, if were very good they well tell us soon!
Genmar Corporations, Brunswick Corporations (BC), big competitor is quite touchy about BC building a new boat line in Mexico and their marketing their boats over the Internet. I have found when a competitor is upset over something you have done, you have usually done something very right.
Some new dealers have come, and some have gone. Some excellent BC employees have done the same. Lets hope those who took their places will be as good.
And this, too late to US Marine, Ref: Maxum & Meridian.
Just because you "can" make a curve, doesn't mean you "should" make a curve. James.
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Maxum 1998 Velvet Drive Series 5000
Dr Mr. Rose,
I saw your note to the Maxum owners site. I have a 1998 Maxum 3700 SCR with less than 100 hrs on it. Last Thursday (July 4th - at the fireworks exhibit in New Bedford Harbor), the port transmission let go (complete with expensive noises). To be honest, I never pay much attention to warranties - but I assume that mine has expired and that I have no recourse other than to pay for a new transmission. Good luck in your quest to get the vendor to admit to engineering errors. Peter.
Peter R Jenkins
POBox 1101
Northboro MA 01532
(508) 393-1717
PS The boat is being hauled today (Monday) - given that the new owners of Velvet Drives are based in New Bedford - perhaps I can get them to come and take a look - any contact names that you have will be appreciated!
peter.rhys.jenkins@attglobal.net
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Cruising
From: Robert Jeglum 3700 SCR lovekiwi@inwave.com
Subject: Fw: Trent Severn
We just completed the Trent-Severn Waterway. This is one of the must unique experiences in boating, impressive locks and beautiful scenery. It takes most people approximately a week to travel the 240 miles through 36 conventional locks, two sets of flight locks, two of the world's largest hydraulic lift locks and a marine railway.
This waterway runs from Port Severn on the Georgian Bay to Trenton on Lake Ontario.
For Vi & Bob's trip log just ask then to send it to you. lovekiwi@inwave.com
We did Trent Severn in 2000, www.maxumboat.com is the Rideau next?
We met Colin on the Rideau in 2000 he is now one of our many Canadian Friend, Colin is doing the little loop we did in 2000 this year. Colin writes:
Hi Jim, ctootill@nimbusgraphics.com
Golden Anchor Marina in Hawkesbury..... give them 24 hrs.
notice & they will bring in a diesel tanker truck to refuel.
We have to be back on the 18th. August, so our
approx. itinerary has 4 days to expand into.
July 28 Bronte - Trenton
July 29 Trenton - Kingston
July 30 Kingston - Alexandria Bay
July 31 Alexandria Bay
Aug 1 Alexandria Bay - Cornwall
Aug 2 Cornwall - Montreal
Aug 3 Montreal - Chateau Montebello
Aug 5 Chateau Montebello
Aug 6 Chateau Montebello - Hull (Casino!)
Aug 7 Ottawa - Ottawa Lock 8 (downtown Ottawa)
Aug 8 Lock 8 - Lock 17 Burritts Rapids
Aug 9 Lock 17 - Smiths Falls
Aug 10 Smiths Falls - Portland
Aug 11 Portland - Lock 39-42 Jones Falls
Aug 12 Jones Falls - Kingston
Aug 13 Kingston - Trenton
Aug 14 Trenton - Bronte
I think that I will pass by Dows Lake, (Ottawa, CN) in the middle of the night!
Private joke between Colin and myself based on our last visit there.
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Here is an Invitation to read and comment on our upcoming
Basic Marine Drivetrains Article! Over 20 Pages!
Your Comments are requested to billegates@aol.com
At: http://www.maxumowners.org/Drivetrain.html
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More ongoing maintenance Items and tidbits of information.
Why is a Sextant, called a Sextant?
Because it's scale was on an arc of 1/6th of a 360 degree circle.
An earlier instrument to the Sextant was called an Octant, yes, based on 1/8th of a circle.
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In a message dated 07/03/2002 3:32:18 PM, bgnord@mrfuton.com writes:
We purchased our 2002 3500 SCR in February of this year. The following are some problems and observations from our first few months.
Our original ECM1s (Electronic Control Modules) were bad. Both engines ran
fine above idle speed but stalled when performing low RMP maneuvers. Replaced and now properly working I suspect. Yes, The ECM's were replaced and she purrs like a kitten.
We are having a problem with our fresh water pump (it seems we are not alone
here). It runs for .5 - 1 sec every minute or so. That usually indicates a
leak in the system, a bad check valve or a bad diaphragm. The pressure drops
and the pump kicks in. It does this with the ice maker and vacuflush head
turned off. We have been unable to locate a leak so we ordered a new pump
through the dealer and will let you know what happens when it's replaced. While this won't help with the pumps cycling problem, look at the plumbing section of the website, It talks about removing flow restrictors. Doing this will make life on board a bit better. Yes, it sounds like either a bad pump pressure switch or a leak. If the leak is small you my be able to find it by feeling at the connections and tee's. I use tissues in my hand to check the connections, my sense of touch after crawling through the boat is less than perfect, but with a tissue, I can see and feel if they are wet. Jc
The AC/Heat unit remote sensor wasn't working when we took delivery. I spoke
to Taylor (the makes of mariner) and they suggested having a local service
tech come to the boat and do the trouble shooting since it was brand new and
under warranty. Not having the patience to wait a week I removed the control
panel cover and discovered that the remote sensor was plugged in to the
#3 outside air temperature plug, and not the # 2 remote sensor port. It's a simple telephone type jack. I switched it to the correct port which is #2 and presto! Excellent!
The AC unit has a condensation pan which drains into a small well. A bilge
pump then transfers from the well to the shower sump which is in turn pumped
overboard. The drain and following system are all facing forward which means
(when condensation is heavy) that when running the boat in a bow up
attitude it's forced away from the drain and spills over the back side of
the drain. Any suggestions? Maybe shimming the back of the unit?
I had the same type of problem, I installed another drain connection in the rear of the drain pan and a "tee."
Getting to the back of the unit may be an issue. I'll twist myself up like a
pretzel next week and take a look. The hold down clips and the front of the
unit are no problem. Are the same type used on the back side? Yes, they are, us a long extension or two on a screw gun. You may find shimming already under the pan. Jc
I have also noticed a list to starboard in our boat. I think it's a
loading problem. Most of the large storage areas are on the starboard side
in addition to the Icemaker, Galley and Dinette. Virtually all of the
storage compartments on the port side are to small for many of the heavier
items. It's a design flaw in my opinion but will do our best to shift the
load. I have heard of this before, and shifting the stored loads is the only practical option.
Glare from the gauges at night: If "sitting" at the helm while operating at
night I'm blinded by the gauges. The angle of the gauge panel on the dash
seems to be about 25 degrees(?) and the light shines through near the top of
each gauge. Any ideas? Other than the obvious "stand up and drive." We took
a 1 1/2 hour night time cruise last night on the Chesapeake Bay and I had to
stand the entire time. Very uncomfortable! Are the gauge bulbs replaceable? Yes, electrical section has the part # Possible with red bulbs? Or coating the originals or a gel. Maybe removing each one and placing some type of sleeve (tape)? Around them? Any ideas would be helpful.
Our swim platform has some soft spots and we have developed a few 6" stress
cracks on the port side. The dealer will be reinforcing it but I was
wondering if there are any 3500 owners out there with this problem. I was
told that some of the early 3700's had a similar problem but Maxum corrected
it in later boats. The dealer said they would discuss it with Maxum but I
have little confidence in that. Ask the builder directly, contact Joe Manders,
Joe is the quality manager on your model 3500 SCB yacht @ Salisbury, MD jmanders@usmarine.com the Salisbury Ph# is in the website under US Marine/Maxum.
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My name is Matt Brennan. matt@jjbrennan.com
I am from Shelton, CT and own a 2001 3500 special edition.
I bought the boat in the late fall and started using it this
Spring. I love the boat but I have had a lot of small problems with the
boat and a lot of big problems with the dealer. I just signed up at your
website, but would like to hear any suggestions you could lend.
My first problem started back in May. My port fuel gauge was dead and it
was apparent that the sending unit needed to be replaced. I told the
dealer, they ordered it and said they would replace it. I still have not
seen it and it is almost August. Next my generator would not stay running.
It would run for 90 seconds or so and shut off. I asked them to come look
at it as it was either not getting fuel or overheating. I have now
determined it is the water pump and have told the dealer this. Still it has
been over 6 weeks and they still have not come to look at it.
About 3 weeks ago my remote stereo pad on my dashboard stopped working. I
called the dealer and they told me that they had been having numerous
problems on other boats with those as well and that they would replace it.
The following week my combination radar/gps stopped working. It is the
Raymarine RL70 which was the navigation option I ordered with the boat.
Surprisingly the dealer replaced it within 2 days, but the person they sent
down was not told of the other problems and that's all they worked on.
This past weekend I took a trip from Milford, CT to Newport, RI. On the way
over I experienced 5-6 foot seas for over an hour. About and hour before I
arrived in Newport, I went below to find that 2 of the 3 mirrored cabinet
doors in the bathroom had fallen off and shattered on the floor. The tiny
screws they used to mount the hinges apparently had worked their way out in
the rough water. When I got to Newport I found that the entire drawer
assembly under the V-berth had popped right out of the console it is mounted
in. To make things worse, this caused the assemble to bear weight on the
surrounding Fiberglas console which cracked pretty badly. After taking a
real close look I discovered that this drawer assembly is held in place by 3
small screws, screwed into the bottom of the V-berth along with (believe it
or not) 4 long staples. There is no other support to hold up the weight of
the drawer in the back. I didn't even have anything in the drawer, it just
wasn't installed properly.
Then I looked at my flat screen TV which came with the boat and discovered
one of the mounting brackets had broken causing the TV to fall over
frontwards shattering the screen. To top off my weekend I went to start my
starboard engine to leave and discovered the battery was dead. Upon
checking I realized my battery charger had stopped working. There was power
getting to the battery charger, but the charger was not functioning. The
internal AC fuse was fine, so obviously something is wrong internally.
Anyway I called my dealer this morning and updated my repair list which
should be covered under warranty. However I am very interested to hear if
anyone else has experienced these same types of problems. I actually love
my boat, I love the layout, the storage, and the way it handles on the
water. I previously owned a 1999 Maxum 2700 SCR. I had good luck with that
boat other than a few stupid little problems, so I thought I was making a
good choice with the 3500. I am going to pass the web address along to my
father-in-law who owns a 2001 3300 SCR. He also has had numerous problems
with the boat and the dealer. I appreciate your time reading this and look
forward to hearing from you. Thanks...
I forwarded this along to Maxum for their help, I expect Matt's problems should go away soon. If anyone out can help with any additional information please contact him directly and CC; us here.
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Channel 16 interference
In a message dated 07/22/2002 7:36:52 PM, kcunningham@attbi.com writes:
Subject: Channel 16 interference Emil: kcunningham@attbi.com
Maxum Model: 4600LE
I am receiving electrical interference on CHANNEL 16 (Channel 16 only) on my Raytheon 220 VHF when I turn on the accessory switch which powers up the autopilot and tridata.
VHF antenna is a 8' Shakespeare Galaxy Eliminator. Reception is fine if accessory switch is turned off. I've tried moving the antenna and transducer cables as far apart as possible, as well as changing accessory switches without success. Dealer has suggested a noise filter.
Has anyone experienced this type of problem? Is there any downside associated with using a noise filter? Would appreciate any input.
Sincerely,
Ken >>
Noise filters are pretty cheep Ken, I would try (2) one on the VHF which takes less than 5 amps, and one on the auto pilot. The auto pilot will need one that wil